Holidays in Naples

Packing, driving to airport, check-in, take-off and a smooth flight between the clouds. Yeeeees, that's the best feeling in the world. It’s a shame that we travelled at night. Due to one-hour delay, we landed in Naples a little after midnight. Public transport was no longer available. Despite people warning us that we should be careful with taxi drivers who like to charge tourists too much, the taxi driver charged us 33 euros for a less than a 15-minute drive. Unfortunately, this was the only possible way of transportation to our hostel, which was only 15 kilometres away from the airport. Although he promised us that he will charge us the price shown on the taximeter, the taxi driver doubled the price and charged us for tolls, luggage ... We insisted at the price of a taximeter, but for nothing. He gruffly replied to us that he does not understand us, he closed the door and disappeared into the black night. We were left shocked in the parking lot of the hostel. Yes, great first impression of Italy.

In general, we left southern Italy with mixed feelings - the arrogant driver was not the only shock. It was surprising to us that people in the south of Italy have no idea where Slovenia is located, that their geographical (or general) knowledge is poor, as well as their knowledge of English. On the other hand, the passers-by (whom we asked for help) always helped us, even when we spoke with our hands or in Italian, as English didn't help us much. The stereotype of terrible chauffeurs, waste and smell on the streets and very loud Italians was confirmed. On the other hand, the south of Italy offers excellent pizzas, croissants and pastries (the dessert "baba di Napoli" is excellent), the Italians know how to charm us with their charisma, and the tourists are delighted with both natural and cultural sights and a rich cultural heritage.

In the morning we were awakened by the sun rays beaming through the window, which offered a view at the city's bustle and the sea in the background, while the birds were singing. In order to make the most of the day, we quickly got up and took the bus to the port, bought a "speed boat" ticket to Procida, and spent the waiting time for a morning stroll in the city. Next to the Bay of Naples lies the mighty fortress of Castel Nuovo, a huge castle with round towers, which welcomes visitors to this Mediterranean city by the sea. We saw the castle from the outside, visited the nearby Umberto I gallery (which is resembles the Milan gallery) and the truly exceptional and magnificent square of the Piazza del Plebiscito, surrounded by the basilica, the palace and the opera house. After seeing the city's attractions, the first morning dose of caffeine and a freshly baked croissant (with so much Nutella that it was too much even for me) we went to the port.

Wonderful Procida and cute coloured houses

Procida is a small island of volcanic origin captured between Naples on one side and Ischio Island on the other. It takes 35 minutes in a speed boat to reach the island. Unlike the island of Capri, Procida is less touristy, but beautiful nevertheless. For me, it is even more attractive, mysterious and interesting than Capri. The island is 4 square kilometres big, and we explored it on foot. We fell in love with the island at first sight - colourful stone houses by the sea, fishing boats, locals and restaurants, narrow streets, paved walkways. Cute and dreamy island.

Terra Murata is the largest attraction and the highest point on the island. From the yellow concrete walls there is a magnificent view of the marina and colourful houses, which are attached to each other with a white church among them.

The island of lemons, high prices and famous actors - Capri 

The next day it was time to explore the island of Capri. It is famous for being a destination for famous names from fashion and movie industry who come here to relax, high prices and exceptional surroundings. Capri is larger than Procida and a much more popular destination for tourists. It is an island where the sun is always shining, with perfect conditions for Mediterranean vegetation, so you will find all kinds of citrus, olive trees and aromatic spices here. It is a true paradise on earth, which has become almost too touristic. The main square is full of people and the terraces of restaurants and cafes are crowded with tourists, so it is worth walking around the outskirts of the island where you can enjoy the endless sea and the golden light of the hot sun. You just need to go away from the crowds and find the magic of this island.

Particularly interesting is the view of the blue cave (Grotta Azzurra), a sea cave that has sank over the years and is now half filled with the sea. The Italians used this natural miracle excellently for tourist purposes, for which (as usual) they put quite a high price to take advantage of.

The forgotten town of Herculaneum and the sleeping Vesuvius

We saw the inland part of the province of Campania in two days, well, we saw all the attractions that we put on our must-see list. We also went to the Vesuvius. At the top there is a wonderful view of the coast of the Naples Bay. In year 79, the Vesuvius erupted and destroyed the towns by the bay. Most people know the story of Pompeii, while the town of Herculaneum - also covered by volcanic dust - is less known.

We went to Herculaneum, which is a smaller town (and a cheaper entrance fee), but to understand the history, it is much more important. Unlike Pompeii, where the pillars and infrastructure of the city remain, Herculaneum has preserved numerous frescoes, mosaics, statues, houses, sites, even the skeletons of the inhabitants. It really seems like the time has stopped here just as soon as the lava reached the city. This way you can walk between the houses, you are impressed by their thermal spas and sewage systems, which they already knew back then. Torn between the admiration and the enthusiasm of this ancient town, and the sadness of the fate of inhabitants, captured by lava in seconds, we left Herculaneum with mixed feelings.

Sorrento, Positano and Fiordo di Furore fjord 

We headed towards the Amalfi coast by train and by local bus. While checking what to see in this part of Italy on Instagram I stumbled upon a nice fjord, so we decided that we'll check it out. As we approached the board with the inscription Fiordo di Furore, we quickly rushed to the door and left the bus. We walked down the stone stairs to the shore. The view is even better than in the pictures. There was nothing touristy about it, some tied boats, pebble beach and unspoiled nature. Fortunately, the fjord is still unknown to tourists, there is neither a parking nor a toilet in the vicinity. We put out towels, ate the croissants we bought in the morning, and drank coffee to go. A dreamy corner to charge our batteries. It’s a pity we did not take swimsuits with us.

We took the bus back to the town of Positano. A picturesque little town, carved into the wall and descending to the sea. At first it was a poor fishing village, but because of its diverse coloured facades, the houses raising above the sea began to attract tourists. Today you can hardly get a free parking space or a chair at the bar because of the tourist crowds.

We spent the afternoon in the city of Sorrento. Yet another charming seaside town with beautiful beaches and colourful little houses, beautiful, cobbled narrow streets, where every step they offer you limoncello, lemon cookies and lavender. 

A five-day exploration of the Campania province has gone too fast. "Bella Napoli" or Naples left us with mixed feelings. With its dreamy location it does not leave its visitors unimpressed. There are countless little corners in its surroundings that are so dreamy and wonderful. On the other hand, because of the high number of inhabitants, Naples has a chaotic effect, we were repeatedly terrified by the Italian drivers and we constantly shut our noses from the smell and were disappointed by piles of garbage on the streets. Despite the less pleasant moments, the city is truly beautiful. The old town is the heart of Naples and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Even a stroll along the narrow streets, where freshly washed laundry hangs on a string between the houses, has its charm. 

Tips for traveling to Naples:

• They have perfect public transport. We were using public transport (on land, ferries are not included) for three days with a " Campania art card" card (32 EUR), with two entrance tickets included in the price.
• We slept in the Mergellina hostel. The hostel is located on the outskirts of the city, in the immediate vicinity of the train and metro station. In less than 5 minutes we were already sitting in the metro and driving towards a new destination. The staff at the hostel is extremely friendly. Each morning we had a morning coffee and a croissant at the hostel. Holders of the HI card receive a 10% discount on the accommodation. 
• It is advisable to buy tickets for ferries and speedboats in advance (especially from Procida or Capri), as it often happens that after 5 o'clock, there are no tickets left to return to the mainland.
• If it is not absolutely necessary, avoid taking a taxi.