Do the Hump!

New Zealand is renowned for its dramatic landscapes and no more so than in majestic Fiordland at the bottom of the South Island. YHA’s Alex Swindells donned her backpack to walk the Hump Ridge Track, a three day tramp in the wilderness.

Milling has declined considerably and the opening of a major attraction in this area - the Hump Ridge Track has added a much needed boost to the township. Tuatapere has successfully embraced tourism and the associated passing trade of the eco-tourist.

The Hump Ridge Track officially opened five years ago and is the newest and most diverse walking track in New Zealand. The track is notoriously arduous and requires a good level of fitness. You can access the track for $90 but if you have any spare cash it’s well worth looking into the various add-on options that the Hump Ridge team have put together that can make your 3 day trek as comfortable as possible .

The walk is three days long and forms a rough triangle; Day 1, the sharp incline to the summit; day 2 is a walk along the ridge and descent to the old logging railway line and day 3 rambling along the coastline back to the pickup point.

“Day one is a killer!!“ Jessica - the Marketing Manager for the Hump Ridge Track -warned us as we checked in at the track office. We had taken up the offer of all the optional extras, shuttles to and from Track Burn, helipacking and the private suite with hot shower. The beauty of heli-packing meant that we could indulge in an extravagant bottle of wine and a few gourmet ingredients that have no place in a serious trampers pack.

Throwing on our comparatively light day packs we trotted off into the forest leaving behind the dedicated trampers staying true to the cause by carrying their heavier backpacks – I couldn’t help feeling that little pang of guilt that makes you think that you are ever-so-slightly cheating. The guilt didn’t last for long as after an hour or so of a steady and gentle incline, we finally met the ‘killer’ part of track, a sharp incline that that had been so instrumental in our eagerness to take up the helipacking option – red faces and heavy breathing ensued.

Hauling ourselves up this gruelling section of track the trees became shorter and the environment more enchanting.  At the top we congratulated ourselves on our efforts and with a view of our destination only a stones’ throw away we didn’t linger for long. The illusion of the short distance to the huts had teased us as it would be another hour or so before we reached our destination –– though I reflected it was a great motivator at the end of a demanding hill climb.

Up on the ridge and in the midst of tussocks and sub-alpine fauna, we finally arrived at Okaka hut. The inviting huts stood sheltered by hillside against a breathtaking backdrop. A break in the weather gave us a glimpse of where we had come from - we could see all the way down to the beach where we had started from just 4.5 hours earlier. Day 1 had been tough and we had conquered it!

Day 2 - after a very comfortable nights sleep in the ‘Hump Suite’, we headed over to where Bruce – a retired accountant and the Okaka Hut Manager - had prepared breakfast for us, a steaming bowl of rib sticking porridge (free to all who tackle the Hump Ridge).

Feeling a little tightness in our legs from the previous day’s effort we were thankful that today was mostly down hill. Refreshed and eager we strode-out along the boardwalk, on to the historic village of Port Craig.

The air was still and the views remarkable as we strolled along the Hump Ridge – this was what it is all about, this is why people go to such lengths to feel like they are on top of the world. Reaching ‘Luncheon Rock’ (though it sits only ¼ of the way into day two), we took time out to just ‘be’.

Onwards and downwards the track ended abruptly at the Edwin Burn Viaduct  - a grand feat of engineering, standing tall and solid over the deep valley. The historical journey had begun as we rambled along the redundant sleepers of the old railway track. Six hours into day two and we encountered Port Craig Village a small community of huts nestled amongst trees and scrub with the old school house standing alone in a clearing nearby.
 
Dumping our bags we ventured into the virtual museum – a gravel track taking you back in time from the village down to Port Craig bay on a journey of artefacts and derelict structures from a time gone by – in the bay we were lucky enough to witness the rare Hector’s dolphins, a real treat at the end of a long day.

Settling in for the evening we looked forward to our final day anticipating more jewels in the Hump Ridge Track crown.

Another comfortable night and filling bowl of porridge later we set out for our final day. The track took us through forest, along the coastline and down to beautiful golden beaches where we investigated the rock pools. The easy beach walk didn’t last for long and we were soon back in the undulating terrain of the forest. Through streams and muddy patches and one more bridge crossing at Track Burn, we were at the end of our three day adventure and delighted to have completed our journey. We had experienced a real gem in the deep south of New Zealand.

Fiorldland Hostels

YHA Te Anau

On the edge of the Fiordland National Park, YHA Te Anau is the perfect location to access some of the world famous New Zealand tramps. This Qualmark 4+ star rated Te Anau hostel continually impresses guests with its unique homely atmosphere and cosy backpacker accommodation just a block from the shores of the gorgeous blue Lake Te Anau.

YHA Te Anau’s lovely lounge has a fireplace and offers plenty of couch space to sink into with a book or while watching one of our free movies. The Te Anau hostel’s shiny stainless steel kitchen is fully equipped and we have fresh spices and herbs growing in our ‘Edible Garden’ so you can cook up your gourmet meal with ease. This Te Anau backpackers also has the perfect outdoor deck and private native garden with a massive barbeque to get grilling on.

       

Bright, clean, modern hostel with excellent facilities and a laid-back vibe. -  Lonely Planet Guide to New Zealand

This clean and placid haven has powerful showers and a friendly staff that knows Te Anau from front to back. - Let’s Go Guide to New Zealand

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