In the narrow stone street an old man sat on the wooden, rickety chair in front of his store. Deep wrinkles on his face reminded on the hard life of this Sarajevian. He stroked his mustache and with an unusually deep voice for such a fragile, skinny body, he said: "The store has been in my family for generations. Now my son makes the products, I'm retired. "
Pots, dishes or ‘sač’, as locals say, almost golden pots for the beef goulash and ‘đezvice’ for making coffee decorated with beautiful ornaments are shining brightly in the light of the sun. An old man in a washed white shirt and olive pants was not so much interested in selling shiny handicrafts, where the Bosnian specialties are being cooked over the fire. Company and small talk meant much more to him. He spoke in a dialect, and for someone who poorly understands Bosnian-Croatian-Serbian language, his words were hard to decipher. But I caught the essence of his words and of the subject you still cannot avoid in Sarajevo: The war. The old man spoke about the terrible attack on the market in the winter of 1994, at a time when the city was occupied. It will take a lot of time for the wounds inflicted in the wars for independence in the Balkans to heal. But it will never be forgotten. Unrestored holes on the facades of houses are still visible; there are still remnants of the effects of grenades in the streets, which are now full of life; injured war veterans begging on the sidewalks for Convertible Mark or two; surrounding hills full of cemeteries… all remind on 3 years 10 months 3 weeks and 3 days long siege of the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (in the years from 1992 till 1996).
This is not a place to write about the history, let alone the horrors of war, but if you visit Sarajevo, it is simply impossible to avoid this subject, which is deeply marked the residents. As Ahmed, one of the management stuff of the Youth Hostel Ferijalac, says, they are now happy. They don’t have much, but they are content. At the time of war, the city was defended by all, regardless of nationality or religion. Again today the inhabitants peacefully coexist. If you're interested in the war of independence, you need to visit the Tunnel Museum, which was literally built during the siege of Sarajevo. 1,5 meters high and 700 meters long tunnel was a lifeline, through which the besieged city gain food, weapons and other supplies. After the war, the tunnel collapsed; a small part of it still stands and you can walk through it. For a better picture there are also some object restored and you can watch a short video with the original tunnel footage.
Tolerance gives a feel of acceptance, a warm welcome of the locals is a rule and the hospitality in this colorful city is not foreign to its inhabitants. Modern skyscrapers stand next to demolished buildings in which green trees found a piece of land and now rise in the blue sky. Modernity is interlaced with tradition and rich history. The city was under various rulers, and that built a solid foundation of tolerance. In a small neighborhood the mosque, synagogue, Roman Catholic and Orthodox Church almost touch with its walls. And Baščaršija! On Baščaršija, which literally means small market, you can really feel the atmosphere of Sarajevo. The smell of baked čevapčiči (grilled minced meat) complements with the stunning fragrance of freshly brewed Bosnian coffee. The sleek white bread invites you to bite in it and do not forget to buy hot burek (flakey pastry filled with meat, cheese, pumpkin, spinach or cabbage). Ottomans in Bosnia left a great mark, so you can smoke shisha with a new hubabuba flavor. Those with sweet tooth must try tufahija and baklava. Šopska salad (with cheese) you get anywhere in the Balkans, as well as a delicious kajmak (melted cheese) that perfectly spreads on the uštipce (doughnut-like balls). You should also try some of traditional čorba (dense soup), after which you will surely lick your fingers. Bazaars of clothing, fashion accessories, antiques and various products that are still manufactured by the skilled hands of local people, are placed between the sights worth seeing.
The heart of Baščaršija is well known for its many pictures of the famous fountain, which is a refuge for numerous pigeons. From this Sebilj Square one can see minaret of the Baščaršijska džamija (mosque) where the imam sings the call for prayer. His voice echoes throughout the market five times a day. Nearby is the Old Orthodox Church, also do not miss visiting the National library, originally used as the Town Hall. Then there is the Jewish quarter, the Gaza Husarev-beg Mosque with Medressa, a set of galleries, museums and churches. As Ferhadija meets Tito Street the Eternal Flame burns in memory of the Serbs, Croats, Muslims and others who gave their lives in the battle for the city during World War II.
When the long shadows fall on houses that are scattered in the surrounding hills, as some kind of magician would strew them out of his magic bag; when night is approaching and the lights of street lamps are turned on, the view from the hills surrounding the city is simply wonderful. If you are staying in the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and your choice is Ferijalac Youth Hostel, you will admire the view every night. Hostel is run by three enthusiastic young men, in a building owned by Ferijalni Savez BiH. With breathtaking views, real Bosnian coffee and "ridiculous" prices, as the young managers say, this hostel successfully competes with others. Warm atmosphere convince visitors to stay a day or two longer than planned. Managers of the hostel will always be happy to share their thoughts with you, make a coffee and smoke a cigarette while talking about local life. They often organize sociable evenings, offer free tour of the city and are always ready to help. Elegantly decorated rooms are in season almost fully occupied. During the Sarajevo Film Festival (this year from 16-24 August) it is almost impossible to get a roof over your head in Sarajevo. The beds are reserved since April, and in that time the prices slightly increase. But these are in the hostel Ferijalac a bargain. Rates for two people per night is only 22 euros, of course, each room has its own bathroom. Prices in Sarajevo are also "ludilo," as Ahmed expressed. 2 liter of beer costs only 1.5 euro, food is accessible at extremely low prices.
I’ve traveled the entire Balkans and the location where I will certainly go back again, is Sarajevo. It has a special charm. Bustling nightlife, friendly people, a sense of familiarity and cohesiveness, low prices, good food, narrow streets of Baščaršija that whisper the story of a glorious history, the green banks of the River Miljacka and white houses, which grow from the surrounding hills, form the city that gets under your skin.
