When I first visited the capital of Macedonia, there was something about the city that made me wish I had more than just three days to explore it. So I decided to go back this summer, and this time I stayed there for a month. The next few paragraphs are a short summary of how Skopje stole my heart – and why I think it could steal yours, too.
When I first arrived to the city last September, I had no idea what to expect. As a matter of fact, a stopover in Skopje was just the cheapest way of getting back home from a trip to Bulgaria. Having done very little prior research on Skopje’s main tourist attractions, I was totally unprepared for the great number of majestic statues that greeted me on my very first walk from the hostel to the city centre. I remember how by the time I had reached the main square the evening sun had painted the Stone Bridge and all the buildings around it golden. I just sat on the edge of the fountain under the enormous Warrior on a Horse and looked around me in awe. My heart was sold.
I later found out that the statues, mostly erected as part of the Skopje 2014 Project, which aimed to give the city a more classical appeal, are not everyone’s cup of tea. Both locals and tourists can be heard calling them kitschy or frowning at such an unnecessary waste of money. I at least partially agree with those accusations, but there is still something about the statues that makes me want to go and find every single one of them (though I don’t think I’ll ever actually get round to doing it, for a simple reason that I haven’t got that much time on my hands).
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Something that takes a lot less time (and is probably more pleasant than running around the city chasing down randomly placed statues anyway) is a visit to the Old Bazaar. I went there very often, at any time of day (even at noon, when the streets of Skopje were so very hot that most sensible people chose to stay indoors). This part of the city is home to many beautiful Ottoman-style shops and mosques. But let’s be honest; I wouldn’t have spent so much time there if it hadn’t been for the food. The restaurants at the Bazaar are cheap, the dishes on offer are tasty and the whole experience comes with an added bonus of numerous opportunities for people watching.
After an obligatory cup of strong Turkish coffee and a stickily sweet baklava, I usually visited one of Skopje’s numerous museums and galleries or went for a run in the City Park. I just loved how many outdoor activities can be enjoyed in or around Skopje. A short (and cheap) bus ride away is the lush Matka Canyon, where you can rent kayaks or even go for a hike (if you choose the latter option, however, be sure to take a good map with you, as the trails are not very well marked). It is also possible to hike to the top of the Vodno Mountain, where you can admire not only the view, but also the huge Millennium Cross, one of the largest crosses in the world. Those who are more comfortable on two wheels can rent a bike and spend a couple of hours cycling along the Vardar River.
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Before my trip, locals and fellow travellers alike had tried to convince me that Skopje was a boring city only worth going to for one afternoon. However, I can now safely say that they were wrong; I could have easily stayed even longer than a month. I fell in love with it because it’s different than any other European capital I’ve ever seen. It can be weird, mysterious and exotic, and yet it feels so much like home. With its rich history and an interesting mix of people (besides Macedonians and Albanians, Skopje is also home to a significant Roma population), the Macedonian capital is quite an impressive city, and I believe it is only a matter of time before it gets the recognition it deserves.
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