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Volcano, rice, temples and wave surfers – part I

»Every body's gone surfing!« that’s the main motto on this small Indonesian island, which is experiencing a new tourist boom, thanks also to film: Eat pray love, made after the book by Elizabeth Gilberth. Yes, we’re talking about Bali.

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Watching through small airplane window before landing was horrifying: “Are we making a water landing.” The landing strip of the only airport on the island, namely, runs out to the sea. Thus there were many strange sensations in stomachs, wide open eyes, and many confused faces. But few moments later it was all over and in a blink of an eye you’re on the beach with most visitors on Bali - Kuta. Some go there on foot, especially since the price of a taxi depends on your negotiating abilities. The obligatory stop, which is the first and for some also the last stop on Bali, is the shoppers paradise with good food and budget friendly accommodations, that has been developing ever since before WWII. For a two bedded room with a modest breakfast you will spend just 7€ per night. If you visit Kuta outside the main season (which is from April to September – dry period), the price can get even much lower. Narrow streets hide numerous accommodations and since there are no price lists, the prices can jump sky high. Why? The August rush of Aussies fills up even the most hidden hotels, so the usual answer of a hostel owner is “take it or leave it.” Low prices don’t always mean low quality, but usually they do. Hence you can expect a few unwanted guests, such as roaches, red ants, geckos… which seem to be part of the furniture. But the endless sand beaches, surrounded by palms and noises of the Indian ocean are what you get in return. Never ceasing waves, breaking on the shores of Kuta make this place a surfer’s paradise – especially for beginners.

The beach at Kuta is always full. Natives are lending out surf boards for beginners and professionals, women are offering massages, jewellery, fruit, ice-cream, various pictures and other tit-bits. They’ll bring you everything to your feet at the beach, but you’ll have to haggle for every single thing. The merchants, who walk around the beach, love to chat. Kiki, who rents surfboards in the shade of a palm tree, told me his life story. You can see the yearning for home in his eyes, which lies on the Indonesian side of Borneo. Like other men of his tribe, he was a hunter in a village with not electricity or plumbing, where people gathered fruit and hunted for survival. He was carving arrows and covering them with the poison of a green frog, so the hit animal surely died. One day he got “a chance of a lifetime” when his uncle took him to Java. »You can’t imagine, what kind of a shock the plane was for me. So big and it flies! I was shaking with fear. Arriving to Jakarta I couldn’t believe my eyes. I kept asking my uncle about everything – what it was. It was my first time I saw a car, electricity, television, telephone, radio, computer… Here a lot of people have cell phones. If I wanted to talk ot my mother over the phone, she had to go from the village to the city – first rowing a boat and then by bus – just so she could call me,“ said Kiki, throwing a stare over the waves of the ocan, with a hint of regret: „it’s been a long time I left home and I haven’t the money to visit my relatives – plane tickets are just too expensive.«

In comparison to prices back home, life in Bali and many other places in Indonesia isn’t expensive – but even if cheaper it’s not of a lesser quality. You need a few days for the body to get used to the local cuisine, but then you can get a great lunch on the beach already. The choice is rich: baxo, a spicy soup with meat or fish balls; nasi campur, rice with many vegetables, fish or chicken. You can’t spend more than a Euro for a lunch at the beach. But Kuta does not reflect the real Bali, for the tourists have done their thing and Kuta became – with some slight differences – like many fancy resorts in Europe. There are luxurious hotels and expensive restaurants near the beach, with many nightclubs and stores for surfers. Outside the tourist zone we get a different view. The interior of Bali is a true pearl of nature and its best to get there by car or bike. Most travellers hire a driver as well, which is not a bad idea seeing how the locals drive. A brave company of four girls went on a trip without a driver, which raised a few looks of men and other tourists, for they thought it’s too dangerous to drive on your own. But the drive was full of adventure, worth a few drops of sweat caused by fear. There are numerous bikers in cities, who don’t respect any rules or regulations but are always honking their horns, not knowing why themselves. It usual to see a whole family ride a single scooter (four people) and if there’s some place left they put their luggage there. So it’s remarkable to know it’s the tourists who are responsible for accidents on this island.
 
So four girls in a car went driving around the island ... more in next issue of Globetrotter.

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