Wandering around Malta – Part 2

Exploring the three cities

The peninsula on which Valletta is situated is surrounded by sea on both sides. From the Upper Barrakka Gardens, our view reaches across the waters of the Grand Harbour all the way to “the Three Cities”. As the name already implies, it’s a cluster of three cities that are much older than the capital itself. Two of them, Vittoriosa and Senglea, were built on a peninsula, similar to Valletta, while being encased by Cospicua on land. Interestingly, all three cities are still known by their old names. Vittoriosa is therefore known as Birgu, Senglea is known as L-Isla, and Cospicuo is known as Bormla. When the Knights of Malta arrived on the Maltese archipelago in 1530, the place they chose to settle was Birgu, which was then a small fishing settlement. Valletta hadn’t existed back then. To me, my biggest discovery when I visited these Three Cities, which are easily accessible by ferry that connects Valletta and Senglea, was the tangle of narrow and winding little streets in Vittoriosa, known as Il Collachio. The part where the Knights of Malta first settled and built their residences and other majestic buildings, which have endured until this day, is quite a contrast to the planned Valletta and its long and straight streets. It simply urges you to explore it.

Megalithic temples in Malta

Nearby the Three Cities is Paola, the city with the largest church in the country, but also home to the Hypogaeum, an important prehistoric landmark that is said to be the only underground prehistoric temple in the world. You can explore it and venture 11 metres deep underground for a price of 35 euros. It’s suggested the Hypogaeum served as a temple as well as a necropolis, due to the numerous skeletons that have been found. It was carved into solid rock about 5,000 years ago, indicating how developed the society, which built it, was. The civilisation, however, remains a mystery to be solved to this very day. The Hypogaeum can take in only 80 visitors per day, which is why tickets are sold out much in advance, despite their high prices. Last autumn, though, tickets were still available on the day of the visit due to a much smaller number of visitors. In Tarxien, next to Paola, is a group of temples which, as opposed to the Hypogaeum, weren’t built underground, but rather on the surface. There are also several temples older than 5,000 years in Malta and they are thought to be one of the world’s oldest freestanding structures. These megalithic temples, older than the Egyptian pyramids, are protected from weather exposure by protective tents, giving these temples a futuristic appearance. It’s basically a pile of stones and only when you read the description, can you make out outlines, which are most notable from the air. The PRESS card holders can enjoy free admission to the prehistoric temples, not just in Tarxien, but also in Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. Just like the Hypogaeum and the capital, Valletta, these are also listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.

Mdina and Rabat

The city almost no visitor in Malta leaves out of their itinerary is Mdina, also known as “The Silent City”. It was built on a small slope and is completely walled in. It was Malta’s capital until the arrival of the Knights of Malta. The Knights wanted the capital to be located near the sea, so they settled in Birgu by the Grand Harbour, which is said to be one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. Mdina, though, remained the home of Maltese aristocratic families and the seat of the archbishop, but it suffered considerably when it came to prominence it had enjoyed throughout history. Walking down the narrow streets, the outline of which was set up in the times of the Arabs, and climbing up the city walls, which offers a wonderful view of the island of Malta and further afield, are the two assets the city with a population of 300 uses to attract tourists. Until the arrival of the Arabs, Mdina and the neighbouring Rabat formed a single city, but today they’re considered to be two separate settlements with a total population of about eleven thousand. Rabat prides itself on its catacombs, the former underground burial ground of the early Christians. When visiting the St. Paul’s Catacombs, which date back to the 3rd century BC, PRESS card holders can enjoy free admission. Rabat is also home to St. Paul’s Grotto where Paul the Apostle, who is said to have brought Christianity to Malta, took refuge after surviving shipwreck around AD 60. Malta is a very Catholic country, which is evident in the large number of churches; some of them even boast the world’s largest domes.

Coastal regions of the island of Malta

The most beautiful places in Malta can be found along the Mediterranean coast. The photogenic fishing village of Marsaxlokk is dotted with colourful fishing boats known as “luzzu” or “luzzijiet” in plural. According to a Phoenician tradition, each luzzu has eyes painted on the prow, and they’re said to ward off evil spirits and help the boat safely return to the harbour. Marsaxlokk is also where the incredibly popular Sunday market is located, but I wasn’t really impressed by it. The most authentic part of the market is the fish section where they sell fresh fish, while stands where people sell shoes, toys and plastic items somehow, in my opinion, just doesn’t fit into the wonderful seaside atmosphere. Malta also has some surprises up its sleeve, such as cliffs that can reach up to 200 metres and the celebrated Blue Grotto with its beautiful azure water, which can be visited as part of a boat tour. The coast is home to Malta’s largest town, Sliema, which is separated from Valletta by the Marsamxett Harbour. The boundaries are defined, but the coastal towns are dotted so close to each other, that suddenly you find yourself in St. Julian’s. Paceville, one of the districts, is the centre of Malta’s nightlife. That’s where I spent the most time with my friends when I visited Malta as part of the senior trip in 1999. Still, I had a very hard time recognising the place with its numerous newly constructed buildings. Some bars still exist, but they were more or less empty during my last visit due to the pandemic. The coastline is, of course, also where the beaches are located. Most of the coastline is rocky, but you can find sandy beaches here and there, such as Golden Bay and Mellieha Beach, or St. Paul’s Bay where you can enjoy some rest for either a few hours or a few days.

We’ve now taken a close look at the island of Malta, and in the last and third part of the article I’ll introduce the islands of Gozo and Comino.