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Qatar, the second state in the world.

Mentioning the names Qatar and Doha (the capital) makes us think of tall skyscrapers, shopping and oil.

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But Qatar is so much more, and just to set the record straight, it got rich by gas and not oil.

Qatar is an interesting country, with independency of some four decades, since September 3rd 1971 used to be a British protectorate before that.

The country is run by Amir Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani, who took over the rule of the country in a peaceful uprising in 1995, from his father.

So why is Qatar the second country in the world? It’s the second, right after Oman and together with Saudi Arabia, when it comes to GDP spending for military (some 10%) and the second largest GDP growth, which is also the second largest (right after Liechtenstein), with $121.000/citizen.

Compared with Slovenia it has twice the GDP and four times higher GDP/citizen and spends ten times more for its military than we do.

But enough about statistics, let’s get to know Qatar.

The gateway is naturally the international airport in Doha, which is surprisingly efficient. I hardly had the time to check out the small duty free shop after passport control and my baggage was already there.

The ride from the airport was along the coast and with a view of the skyscrapers – and also pleasant.

Doha is above all a new city, where most of the town from before the gas era was demolished, but not also the charm of the ages.

This means the bazaar (Souk Wakif) was renovated in the traditional style and still gives out the feeling of past centuries. Apart from traditional items, such as gold and spices, we can also find some odd spray painted chickens and rabbits - alive.

Behind the bazaar are the last remains of the old town, but are do to be demolished in the near future. It’s mostly one story buildings, narrow streets and everything that goes along with it. It’s the residing quarters of foreign workers and temporary workers without the citizenship, but owned by locals waiting to get the right price for it.

But there’s a lot of luxury in Doha, which we see in hotels, residential and comertial buildings, in the museum of Islamic culture, the palace of Amir and broad avenues, not to mention shopping centers where imagination runs wild.

There’s many such malls, but »Villagio Mall« stands out from them. Apart from shops and restaurants you’ll find a real amusement theme park inside, along with ice skating ring, a hockey ring and a system of canals with Venetian gondola riding up and down them.

Despite all the efforts it’s virtually impossible to find something that would be labeled “made in Qatar”.  That’s why I wanted to find out, what the people did before they found gas, so I visited the heritage village in the very center of the city. Here we can learn about the skills of women making delicious food and men weaving baskets and fishing nets. Fishing and pearl diving were typical of Qatar in the past and still are, only today it’s usually foreigners who do the job, usually from India. In the heritage village is also the stage where you get to hear their typical rhythm and see their traditional dance steps.

But to feel the spirit of Qatar from the past few decades we need to go north, via a modern highway. In towns such as Al Khor, Ar Ru'ays, Al Khuwayr and other settlements on the west side of Bahrain bay. The best preserved building is the Zubara fortress, near the former settlement with some 6000 people who used to collect pearls and fish. Today large excavations are taking place there.

There are stil many fishing ships to the north. There’s also the previously mentioned town of Al Khor, with a lively port full of fishing ships and naturally a fish market. But in the background we see the living conditions of people who moved in and helped build up Qatar, in dusty narrow streets and a mosque in a pretty beat down condition.

But the biggest differences are seen with workers working for foreign companies doing business in Qatar. Those workers are paid according to the domestic laws of the country where the company was founded and are paid much less than Qatar workers, but still better than they’d be at home. This means some €160 a month, with most of it being sent home to the families.

According to the »state department« many workers come to Qatar because they’re promised a good pay, but end up doing low wage jobs. That’s why the authorities in Qatar spent over a billon $US to make the “worker’s city” in the industrial part of Doha, where each worker gets 4,25 square meters of living space and the use of recreational facilities placed near by.

The human rights and religious freedom are also progressing nicely, since women have the right to vote (since 1999) and take position in the government. They are also allowed to dress freely, but most of the (on their own free will) respect the tradition and are almost completely covered up. Some 75% of population is Muslim with 25% of various religions. Since 2008 there’s also a Christian church in Qatar and it’s the first church in the Arabic world dedicated to the Virgin Mary. But the church may not show any religious signs, thus it has no cross on top, no bells or other markers.

Even alcohol is permitted, but under strict rules and limitation. You can only get it in hotel bars at extremely high prices. And you may not drink or show alcoholic beverages in public.

But back to Doha and its surroundings. Almost entire coast is sandy and warm, so you can take a swim even in month when we’d be wearing coats and hats in Europe. Needless to say, the heat can even be too much in the summertime.

So you can go to the beach and enjoy the clear sea, play a few holes of golf, take an off-road drive on the sand dunes or even ski on them. There are also indoor sport facilities with virtually limitless possibilities.  

But the biggest charm of Doha is the splendor even tourists get to enjoy. Hence you can visit the pearl island – completely man made – a festivity center in Arabic style, or you can walk among the skyscrapers and sneak a peak at the palace. Not to mention getting lost at the bazaar with many narrow streets and endless goods.

And some tips for the travelers

Although Qatar is among richest countries, even budget travelers are welcome. They have two excellent hostels with Hostelling international regulations, meaning they offer the world wide accepted HI standards – and much more. The interior is splendorous, yet the price is still affordable, with a night in a two bedded room at €30 per person. But I guess the names are not really creative, for they are named Hostel Doha A, and you’ve guessed it, Hostel Doha B. But the name is not really that important. Even the food and beverages (except alcohol) are priced appropriately, and there are other restaurants with prices affordable for budget travelers, as well as expensive elite restaurants with prices ranging from three numerals (in Euros) and up.

There are many flights into Qatar, so I suggest you check out the price, for it can vary drastically. You’ll also need an entry visa, but it’s said you can get it at the airport itself, if you have a reserved board – but I haven’t tried it out, since I got mine beforehand.

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