For me, this is the country of most hospitable people. The proverbial Caucasian hospitality gains a whole new dimension here. They say love goes through the stomach, so it’s no wonder, people fall in love with this place. I went to Georgia with night train from Zidani Most, passing Belgrade, Sophia, Istanbul and Ankara. It took me three days to finally reach Batumi, the tourist centre on the Black Sea shores. It’s a popular resort for Georgians and neighbouring Turks, for it’s only 20km from the border. Less than half an hour’s drive is the capital – Adžarija – an autonomous republic to the west of the country.
Batumi has a large harbour and a shopping centre, but is also the last stop of the trans-Caucasus railroad. The former Soviet republic borders Russia to north, Azerbaijan to south-east, Turkey and Armenia to the south and has Black sea to the west. It’s a transcontinental country, lying both in Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Even before the recent events it was difficult to get to South Ossetia and Aphasia. Currently it’s Russians who live there, for the Georgians moved out to find home in other cities and territories. In 2008 there were many fights where in just a few days many Georgians died. The situation is still tense and the people still live in uncertainty. You cannot enter South Ossetia and if you want to enter Aphasia you would need a special permit, which takes at least five working days.
The best way to get around are the marshrutkas, which are always jam packed vans that take you to any part of the land for a few coins. For shorter rides you pay when you exit, otherwise up front to the driver. Mostly they are really nice and help you by buying tickets or getting a connecting ride.
The train is painfully slow and only suited for longer destinations, like the connection between the coast and the capital, or crossing the border. When I was going to
Tbilisi from Kutaisi I had a feeling I’d be faster cycling. But the ride was interesting and watching the landscape through the window and the contact with the local people on board did give me the real experience of the country.
I’ve stopped at the city of
Gori, which is the birthplace of the soviet leader Iosif Vissarionovich Jugashvili - Stalin and probably the last place that still upholds the cult of worshiping this man. Stalin’s museum is best visited in the land and next to it is the birth house and a train cart with which he made most of his travels. Since he was always a target while being the leader of the Soviet Union, it was safer for him to travel by train than by plane. The main city avenue holds his name and people still respect him as we used to respect the former leader of Yugoslavia – Josip Broz Tito. In the museum I asked the young lad working as a guide about Stalin’s cruelty and he replied: Off course he was a great man, the best… And I’m sorry, but I had to say: “I’ve heard he killed many people.” And the lad just said: “nobody’s perfect, but you have to know he won the Second World War and built the trans-Siberian railroad.”
The food has a very good reputation and it is well deserved. The main dish is khachapuri, a cheese pie, which you can find around every corner. Expect large quantities of sheep and goat cheese, a lot of cooked vegetables and boiled meat. Khachapuri was so good, I had it every day and if you’re ever in Georgia you really must give it a try! The village of Kazbegi, under the mountain Kazbeg (5033 m) is just at the border with Russia and is a great starting point for trekking the Caucasus. The village is charming and at the elevation of over 3000 meters, surrounded by mountains and with a sensation as if the time has forgotten it.
The first capital of Georgia was
Mtshketa, which is only half an hour away from Tbilisi. You should see the church of Jvari, where St. Nino placed the first wooden cross in the 4th century. In Mtshketa you’ll also find the biggest Christian church in Georgia - Svetitskhoveli from the 11th century, as well as the Samtavro monastery where they’ve crowned and buried the rulers of Georgia. Here you’ll find the resting place of the first Christian king Mirian and queen Nana. Tbilisi is one of the most beautiful cities of the trans-Caucasus region and the current capital. It was established by the Georgian king Vakhtang Gorgasali in the 5th century. Between 11th and 12th century it developed into a strong economic, political and cultural centre of the Caucasus and the Middle East.
As the capital
Tbilisi controlled many economic routes between east and west Caucasus and a part of the Silk road. The old city centre is famous for many churches and historical buildings, museums and wooden houses with nicely carved balconies. Georgia is a country that charms you with the natural beauty and hospitality of the people and you can only wish to come and visit it again.
