For my first longer journey I've chose Mexico – the land of various cultures, with smiling people, varied landscape and interesting history. And since Los Angeles is “near” I wanted to see it too, even if it cost me 50 hours of driving in a jam packed bus. Most of the way my friend and I were the only tourists. There are people, that will hate you simply because you’re white and then there are people who want to reach out to you even though they can’t speak a word of English. In general I can say about Mexicans, they’re friendly, warm and willing to help.
On our 50 hour drive we changed two buses, one more full than the other. People are also well equipped for a long ride, with much of boiled food (you can imagine the palette of smells) and at least two blankets per person. We didn’t know on the first bus, but regardless the outside temperature the AC will be put on high, so we almost froze. Our sleeping bags were nicely packed in the bunk below, with 50 other pieces of luggage. For the next 25 hours we were prepared also. We also got used to the smells, but the second bus was a class better than the first one – it even had a toilet. Never mind it was clogged up and the doors opened on each turn – with us sitting all the way in the back…
Guadalajara was the first city we reached. It was a real shock that among 4 million people, you can’t find a single one speaking English. We tried our broken Spanish, but nobody had a clue where we wanted to go. There are countless bus operators in the city and while you’re going from a station to a station only to discover you’re again at the wrong place, the 20 kilo backpacks really aren’t helpful.
We’ve left the city and headed forth to Uruapan, where we started hotel hunting. We followed the tips of Lonely Planet and got a horrid room with no windows and a terrible bathroom. Luckily the creepy giant ants were not charged extra. When we complained at the reception, the guy from the desk came and started stomping on them, giving me the look – that’ll do, right? Naturally it didn’t help and new ones started coming from each crack. We wanted a different room and finally, after 20 minutes of complaining, got one in a slightly better condition. The hotel was half empty, so I’m guessing we couldn’t get the room sooner because he was off killing more ants.
We got up at 6 in the morning (with no windows you kindda loose the sense of time) and found out our only watch we had with us, was broke and it was already half past seven and we were running late. And hour later we were at the Indian village and from then on towards the foot of the volcano Paricutin. A three hour ride in one direction and on foot to the top. A superb view. A great Sunday trip, but with an aching back side until the next Sunday.
We were lucky and caught the last two free seats on the night bus to Acapulco, so we didn’t have to spend the night at the cold bus station. We were sitting in the back so we got comfortable, pushed the seats down and thought how lucky we were… when four more Mexicans got on and sat behind us, so we had to put the seats in the upright positions… there was also a good night movie – The Day After Tomorrow – naturally synchronized into Spanish.
We got to Acapulco early next morning and took the local bus to the coastal village of Pia de La Cuesta. There was a small mishap on the way, when our bus driver knocked off a side mirror of a car, while speeding along, but this was probably a normal thing, because he didn’t even flinch. Finally we got to the sea, heat, sand, waves… and about the waves… I happily jumped onto a wave, which pulled me into deep water, turned me spun me three times and I drank half a gallon of water. Ever since I got whichever phobia fits the fear of waves. It was fun… for the spectators on the shore, less for me. In the next few days I only sun bathe.
In Puerto Escondidu, a cute coastal town – surfer’s paradise – we found a really colourful hostel, with travellers from all over the globe. We slept in the most budget friendly option possible – a hammock. I can’t say it was among the most comfortable nights I’ve spent, but it was fun – and cheap!
We continued to Tuxla, where we took the motorboat ride to the marvellous canyon Sumidero, shaped by the river Grijalva and where parts of the canyons are surrounded even by 1200m tall cliffs. I saw an alligator sunbathing and there were many various birds, monkeys and in the end a Christmas tree made by nature with a rainy waterfall falling down it. Next we went to see the picturesque colonial town of San Cristobal. Next day we continued to the ruins of Palenque, which has got to be one of the most beautiful Mayan cities. We took a whole day to explore the ruins and the next day we went to the Aqua Azul waterfalls, thus named due to their beautiful colour. And next we headed for the tourist centre of Cancun, from where we took the boat to Isla Mujeres. White sand, warm blue sea, palms, coconuts, good food, great music… true paradise!
So we only had the last long bus ride (with all the smells, rocking bus and a very graphic episode of heart operation shown on TV) to the national capital. Mexico City or Ciudad de Mexico is the biggest capital city in the world. It has over 20 million people. The food in Mexico did not impress me, even if I love Mexican restaurants back home. If you’re ordering randomly you never know what you eat – but the chances are, you’ll end up with beans in one of the millions ways they prepare it. Only in Mexico city I discovered the tortas, the best sandwiches I’ve ever tasted. And you have to experience the chaos on the main market place, to believe it. In the end we also went to see the Teotihuacan, the sun pyramids and the moon pyramid with such a crown we missed the train! We scraped up the last pesos for a cab to the airport. We had to take the cheap cab – not recommended and less safe, they say – but we couldn’t afford a better one.
It all ended well and we were on the plane for Europe, with a snow storm awaiting us on Vienna airport.
Nina Bajde
