Salzburg Expedition – Part 2

So, we said ok, that’s out of the question, then let’s go somewhere else. And we looked at the train describer and chose another destination. The gentleman also shared very useful information about a ticket that’s valid for groups of at least two, namely the Einfach-Raus-Ticket. It’s valid for certain routes for a particular amount of payment. This means that you can use the same ticket from nine in the morning until three in the morning of the next day, hopping on and off. The only thing you need to pay attention to is to find the right connection because the ticket isn’t valid for all trains. It was a good thing there’s no dual in German like there is in Slovenian, so the two of us were already plural. And there we were, on our way to Linz.

We were a bit lost at first because we didn’t know which way the old town was, so we walked in circles around the train station. It’s not that we didn’t use navigation, but some things just didn’t add up. I guess you just have to get lost every now and then, something we’re good at, but it’s kind of bizarre when it happens at the train station. And then we finally found our direction and made it to the old town. We’d already read about what Linz has to offer, so there were some reference points that we made as to what to look for and what would be interesting to see. All the rest we decided on the fly.

We walked down the old streets and admired the façades of the houses that resembled cake layers, and then climbed up a slope where a castle used to stand once, but now its remnants have been turned into a museum. We left out the museum this time, but we did have lunch next to it and were accompanied by gardeners who were fixing decorative flower planters at the entrance. The castle hill also offered a very nice view of the whole city. An information panel nearby told us that there was a tram going from Linz that turned into a funicular when it started rising up a hill in the vicinity.

K.u.k Hofbäckerei

We went back to the city afterwards to look for a confectionery with a long-standing tradition, reaching as far back as the time of Franz Joseph and his companions. I read a piece of text somewhere that recommended the Linzer Torte, which sounded fascinating enough for us to seek out the confectionery and take a closer look at this traditional delicacy. We found the place and it was so sweet, even for us, who simply melt at such a sight. It was small and furnished in a way that it gave off a feeling as if the time stopped somewhere in Austria-Hungary, and the fragrances of various strudels, pastries and bread intoxicated you upon entering.

It was basically a bakery, a confectionery and a café all in one. A warm welcome from the lady at the counter and there was no debating whether or not we should go and check it out. We sat at a small table by the window and ordered an apple strudel and the famous Linzer Torte. Both were heavenly. Especially the cake, which was truly something special. It didn’t look like anything special, though – it was actually just brown sponge cake that tasted like Christmas of 1884 – when you take a bite, you see snowy streets, horses and carriages decked with bells, adorned display windows, cheerful smiles and warm welcomes. Yes, that how the Linzer Torte tastes like, but just the one at the K.u.k Hofbäckerei.

Taking the funicular to Pöstlingberg

After the delicious meal that was full of wistful nostalgia, we continued exploring the empire, imbued with the spirit of Austria-Hungary. There was an old-style tram waiting at the edge of the main square, fully operational. Its destination was Pöstlingberg, that precise hill we read about at the castle hill. Our decision to hop on and venture into the unknown was unanimous. The track ran on level ground for some time, but then suddenly went uphill and the tram soon turned into a funicular. It seemed like a charming tourist train at first, but its primary function was more practical. School children and other locals who were on their way to work or out running errands in Linz hopped on and off and they lived on the hillside. The hill was and still is a popular pilgrimage site, owing to the fact that a mighty church towers at the top. The view reaches far over the whole valley, there are walking paths, and it’s said that visitors may even encounter a dwarf or some other being that still live there, roaming around.

We ended our trip to Linz with another stroll down the main streets, after which our train already waited for us to take us back. Pleasantly tired, we headed back to Salzburg and treated ourselves to a delicious greasy pizza before calling it a day and going to bed happy.