Travelling to Portugal – Part 1

Red lights for individual destinations kept flashing and flashing, with a yellow one shyly shining in between, though posing a threat of quarantine. As soon as there was a green light for entering a country, everyone rushed to the fast lane, stepping on the accelerator to make the most of the window of time that could already close next week. I sympathised with travellers who, since March, could only helplessly tremble while wondering whether their flights would also be cancelled, whether they’d even get their money spent on the plane ticket back, perhaps even in the form of a voucher they wouldn’t even be able to redeem. Subsequently, these travellers could say goodbye to their already booked accommodation, which, in most cases, didn’t refund advance payments that were made... Most travellers bitterly joked that their passports were this year’s most useless item. Fortunately, I was set on last-minute holiday decisions this year as well, so I was really lucky and could meander my way abroad without any difficulties.

One Friday afternoon in August I was bored and was checking news on a social network, when my face lit up at the sight of exclamation marks noting that mainland Portugal was again on the “list of countries one is allowed to visit”. Without a second thought, I decided to fulfil my lifelong wish of visiting the said country; cheap plane tickets appeared in my incoming mail folder in a flash. If you’ve got at least a week of holidays to spare, I’d highly recommend choosing different arrival and departure airports, so you’ll be able to make the most of your time. Portugal boasts three international airports, so this time I chose Porto in the north and Faro in the south. Due to the early arrival, I had very little time left for planning all the tours, but I definitely recommend getting yourself a Lonely Planet guide. I booked the first three nights in Porto before the departure and saved the links to websites with info on interesting things to see in my incoming mail folder. I decided to book everything else on the go, based on the spur of the moment inspiration. I was actually confined only by the date and place of departure.

I admit that free data roaming in the EU has been getting me through on my travels lately – if you’re travelling with cabin baggage, all the necessary documents are just a few clicks away – you don’t have to search for plane tickets, foreign travel insurance, accommodation bookings (and the map showing you how to get there in particular), the list of things to see in each place, museum opening hours and locations, or the best confectionary and so on. In the case of limited cabin baggage, your smartphone also replaces your camera, so you almost need to keep a close eye on it much more than you would on your wallet. You basically don’t need anything else other than your ID card and your credit or Mastercard, as well as a few coins to serve as change. Well, under no circumstances should you forget your European Health Insurance Card or, better yet, take out an annual travel insurance at one of the insurance companies.

Due to strict measures for containing the pandemic, people in Portugal, which just reopened its borders for tourists, followed the rules to a tee: Many hostels were still closed during my visit, and some only allowed half of their beds to be booked, while open hostels strictly followed the instructions, such as keeping an appropriate distance in closed areas, wearing face coverings and disinfecting regularly (the indoor dining room could only take in a minimum number of people, there was a limit of max one person at each table at breakfast, in most cases the latter was even cancelled, there was a minimal number of people that could hang around strictly in outdoor areas etc.). Nightlife in Portugal came to a complete halt and was only just starting back up – bars where locals and foreigners used to sit around late into the night closed early; at eleven and even at midnight there was no one in sight, despite it being Friday or Saturday night in the middle of August. Frankly, I admit I found that to be much better for my solo evening exploration.

Porto was an excellent starting point for exploring Portugal – the colourful town can be toured on foot, but if you’re looking for transportation, tuk-tuks have become quite popular lately, along with frequent buses, trams, trains, metro and taxis. Yes, you read that right. Drivers of nicely decorated electric tuk-tuks have become private guides that won’t just guide you around, but will also take you wherever you want, even in the country’s capital and other small tourist places. For a family or a small group, it’s a perfect way to tackle the endless steep slopes, plus you’ll learn lots of new things that you won’t find in guide books.

Both Porto and Lisbon are cities build on hills. You almost have to climb a slope, no matter where you want to go. That’s why you should definitely get some comfortable sportswear; steep paths can turn into slides on a rainy day because pavements in the old town are mostly cobbled and not made of asphalt. Your favourite summer flipflops are definitely out of the question here.

You should also adjust the time you want to spend in Portugal according to your wishes and schedule; some people prefer to visit museums, some give priority to taking photos of architecture, some people like to explore natural wonders, and again others delight in sitting on the promenade, sipping port wine and enjoying the city vibes. From my personal experience, I definitely recommend a combination of all the above in moderation.

If Porto’s suitable for a two-day tour on foot, Lisbon definitely doesn’t fit the bill. It’s a considerably larger city of three million people where you won’t get far on foot. When in Portugal’s capital, I definitely recommend using cheap public transport, such as buses and underground, as it will help you save up lots of time, even if you’ll be using transportation for only two stations. You’ll be grateful when walking down a slope instead of climbing uphill.

I chose the country’s south to conclude the nine days I spent exploring Portugal. I was finally able to spend at least two days (at the end of August!) wearing shorts and a t-shirt, making my way knee-deep into the Atlantic with chattering teeth. It was very windy(ish) everywhere else, and most tourists I encountered along the way wore waterproof shoes and an anorak, but Faro delighted me with 30 degrees Celsius, which is very appropriate for a summer holiday at the seaside.

Are you interested in more detailed tips on what to see in Portugal? Then stay tuned for my next article where I’ll talk about towns I visited on my current trip, as well as the ones that are still waiting for me on my next visit to this western European country by the Atlantic Ocean. I’ll also give you some culinary ideas you definitely shouldn’t miss out on.