All those, that are not in the theme park after dark, can be found on the streets of Pyongyang under street lights with their various study literature. We can find youth from 10 to 30 years, each with a book or a notebook. I thought this was a strange habit, so I wanted to find out what’s behind it. The answer I got, was always the same – they can better concentrate (which I can understand, because the traffic is not heavy at all). Also they all said it’s the best way not to disturb people at home, who have to get up early in the morning. I was also wondering, if there is a hidden agenda – maybe a possibility for young people to meet without their parents around – but based on the answers I got, it’s plain and simple: they just go to street to read and study.
As a show of gratitude, for all our guides and translators did for us, we invited the two of them to diner in a restaurant in the centre of the city. We walked there under street lights, wondering about the people who studied.
When we had to cross the road, with three lanes but very little traffic, we also encountered their police force. We crossed the street carefully and safely, but the officer called the older guide in our group and gave him a fine. For the rest of us, we had to return and cross the street correctly, so we would learn how to do it right in the future. And this was the only “punishment” we received – because the purpose of punishment is to teach you how to do it right. It was a great topic for the diner conversation.
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Arirang, or mass gymnastics, is the biggest show in the world with most participants and it takes place in the biggest stadium in the world – the May Day stadium in Pyongyang. The stadium can accept 150.000 spectators and this is the event that takes place every year at end of August beginning of September is waiting for the entry in the Guinness book of world records. There are 100.000 people performing in the Arirang – from those on the spectator places with colourful tables showing images to people on the other side of the stadium; and naturally to those on the stadium grass with and off course the highest class acrobats performing stunts that take your breath away. The event also features the demonstration of Tae kwon do, which is the national sport of Korea, and much more. The 90 minutes – that’s how long the event is – pass like a moment. It is not allowed to film the event – due to copyright issues, but it is allowed to take photos.
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On our way to the exhibition of presents that Koreans from all over the world sent to the leaders of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea we arrived to the rural suburbs, where we saw people – who, naturally, were not wearing suits and ties like most people in the capital. They were nicely dressed though. Despite some media stories seen in the western media, from what I saw first-hand, the people were generally content. There are off course some people, who are not happy, but that’s just the exception that proves the rule. Their homes are more modest than in the capital as well, but neat and practical. On our way back, because the road was closed due to construction (they were putting in some pipes) and we could see a large group of people waiting. And it was here that we got best proof that the media image of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea produced in some western countries is far from the truth (there are some media images presenting starvation and even cannibalism). O.K., the crossing of the railroad was a bit chaotic, to say the least, with all the cyclists and motor riders honking and ringing the bells. But that’s the sort of chaos you can find everywhere and is neither good nor bad. But it just goes to show, that if chaotic situations can happen, this is not the country the western media portraits as a country of complete control, tyranny and a country where nobody dares to speak openly, let alone make noise at the railroad crossing.
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There are a handful of tourist organizations that can arrange a visit, but they offer extremely high prices and a one week tour is rarely under 3000€. That is why we made contact to the organizations within the Democratic People’s Republic that will allow friendly people to visit this far east country. Most people, upon their return, just cynically want to show all the worst ad that is why people in the DPR Korea are very sensitive about photographing. Not only the tourist guides, but also other people don’t like to be photographed – especially if they are in their everyday clothes or dressed for work.
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