This travelogue is a continuation of the Discover Qatar in 144 hours study tour. Marjeta presented the first days, places, attractions, and experiences we had. Here are some of the other highlights that enriched our journey. From the Qatar Foundation, Al Zuraba Fortress and the heritage village of Ain Mohammed, to the impressive museums, Grand Mosque and Waqif Market. And let's not forget the Horticulture Expo 2023 in Doha.
By definition, it is a non-profit organisation that develops programmes focused on education, research, innovation and community development - for the benefit of Qatar and the world. Our visit included a visit to the organisation's headquarters, where we were given an overview of its activities, the size of the Education City and its links with universities internationally.
Photographic motifs were noticed from the beginning, including the Al Shaqab Equestrian Center, which also represents the breeding of famous Arabian horses. They are primarily valued for their beauty, endurance, speed and intelligence.
After a visit to the riding centre, the modernised stables and the horses themselves, we went to what you could call the "brain" of the educational centre.
The exterior of the "monument to knowledge" evokes two sheets of paper, torn apart and folded diagonally at the corners. If you look at it you'll see a shell shape that 'encloses' the open interior, which receives a lot of daylight nonetheless. Such an imposing work is a product of Pritzker's laureate from 2000, that is, the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas.
We had a guided tour of the library, where we saw the automated process of returning borrowed materials to the Heritage Library, a marble labyrinth below the surface, which can also be seen from the main lobby.
EXPO, which has been running since 1851, is today considered a so-called mega event or one of the largest organised events in the world. As well as providing an opportunity to present solutions to fundamental and current global challenges, to showcase countries to the rest of the world, etc., it is divided into four types. Four types of exhibitions are organised under the umbrella of the Bureau International des Expositions (BIE):
Because we were in the right place at the right time, we saw the Horticultural EXPO 2023 (in addition to the visit to Lusail Boulevard, which you can read about in Marjeta's article, and the AFC Asian Cup 2023, which took place in the stadiums of the last World Cup - the notorious construction of which I won't mention in this post). From playing traditional Arabic board games to tasting coffee at the Rwanda Pavilion, we have many memories to cherish. Our hosts also took care of the transport between the pavilions, where we "raced" in golf carts.
The next day, we visited Qatar's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the archaeological site of Al Zubarah, located off the north west coast near Bahrain. It was once the site of the town of Al Zubarah, which flourished in trade (especially in pearls) at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. During our visit to the excavation site, we noticed a lot of litter washed up on the shore, which was collected and removed by diligent volunteers.
There is also a fortress with the same name nearby, rising from the desert in a golden-brown color similar to sand. Without a scratch or a stain on its surface, the rather small fortress is also interesting from the inside. The floor of the atrium itself, which resembles very fine gravel, is in fact small shells through which rainwater seeps when it rains infrequently and is then stored. The view from the defence towers reaches far into the Persian Gulf.
Near the archaeological site and the fortress, we saw an art installation entitled Shadows Travelling on the Sea of the Day, a work by artist Olafur Eliasson, which is a play of elemental materials, but I leave the interpretation of the artwork to each individual.
In addition to its large oil and gas industry (one of the largest, if not the largest, exporter of natural gas, a major exporter of oil and, by extension, petrochemicals), Qatar is today thriving on its focus on the high-end service sector, in particular by linking up with the rest of the world through the national airline, Qatar Airways, which is boosting the development of tourism - specifically the increase in the number of tourists with business motives (construction of conferences, hotels and similar infrastructure).
The village dates back to the 19th century, which is also said to have been abandoned, and now the complex of 24 buildings represents an area for visitors interested in Qatari culture. The visit is described with a paragraph from the field log:
»… On arrival at the village in the middle of the desert, we were taken to the first building and seated on the typical comfortable armchairs with cushions. On all the walls were photographs of various sizes, some in black and white, others of the current head of state. The armchairs, which, together with the cushions, were full of patterns and ornaments, were placed along the walls of the room, facing the centre, from where a person came and poured each of us either an Arabic coffee or karak. This person could be described as a local in the village, as he was dressed in a typical Arabic garment called Thawb (a kind of uniform white robe) and a Keffiyeh headdress. He poured Arabic coffee from a dedicated container called Dallah, which has a characteristic shape with a high neck and a gilded exterior. Thus, he filled each individual coffee pot to only a quarter of its capacity, which is also in line with the protocol. After at least most of us had taken a sip of our coffee, the host started pouring again. The way to refuse an extra pour of either of the two liquids was a slight flick of the wrist of the raised hand. Knowing the whole procedure, I noticed that the gentleman left out the part where he was supposed to offer each person a sniff of 'Bakhoor', which means 'fragrance' in Arabic and is a typical part of hospitality in the Middle East (of course, on the other hand, it is offered on special occasions and on Fridays). It is a kind of fire-lit incense that is offered to each guest to smell and relax with the aromas. The preparation, which resembles a detailed wooden vase, has a place to light some wooden pieces, usually soaked in perfume oil and mixed with additional ingredients such as resin, essential oils, etc."
Arabic coffee, as an element of Arab generosity and (un)commercial hospitality, has also been inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2015. You can read more about the entire process here.
The two museums we visited are presented below and, in addition to their interesting exhibitions, they are also magnets of attraction in terms of how they look like on the outside.
Even if you are not interested in artifacts, longer texts and other museum installations, this museum will attract you because of its architectural design. The museum's shape both represents and resembles a desert flower. Desert flower is a distinctive and common form of gypsum mineral in this area of the world, that turns a typical light brown colour in the presence of contaminants. You can take a quick look at the museum in this video.
Like the National Art Museum and other buildings (e.g. the National Library), it is an attraction in its own right because of its architecture. The design is the work of another Pritzker Prize winner, the Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei, who opens the door to the heritage of the Islamic religion, which includes examples from all over the world, spanning more than 13 centuries of Muslim teachings.
As a point of interest, the same architect and his partners also designed the Louvre extension - the famous Louvre Pyramid, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, the Presidential Library and the John F. Kennedy Museum, among many others.
The museum is located in the Al Corniche area of Doha, with panoramic views of the city's West Bay waterfront, both from the outdoor platform and through the panoramic window in the museum's lobby. The photogenic point also serves as a background in some films.
At our special request, our Qatari friends who looked after us during the study tour also organised a guided tour of the main State Mosque in Doha. Not only did we have the opportunity to visit the interior during different prayer times, we also got a historical lesson on the origin of Islam. Before entering the mosque, we also changed into Thawb and put on Keffiyeh, which made us feel like we were not tourists, but locals going to the daily ritual. After an interesting visit, we moved on to the crowded marketplace, where football fan groups were flocking alongside curious visitors.
The Waqif market or souq, located near the aforementioned museums, is probably the most ''primal'' and culturally colored area between modern and young buildings. In addition to the traditional stalls selling spices, clothes, street food and souvenirs, buying a falcon is an interesting activity. Like Arabic coffee, falconry is included in UNESCO's Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage and in the transboundary inscription, with 24 countries involved (compared to 4 for Arabic coffee).
In the shop at the Falcon Market, you can admire the mighty birds up close, most of them wearing a special cap over their eyes (which, according to the vendors, is supposed to calm them down). The falcon represents the Qatari national bird. Similarly, the Arabian oryx (genus of antelope) is Qatar's national animal and can be identified on the logo of the national airline. Since the time of the Bedouin tribes, falcons have been trained and used to hunt other migratory birds, which were a source of food in this desert environment.
Despite the informative and well-planned study tour, the main part of the trip was our team, who guided us from one point to another every day, adapting to our specific wishes, preferences and needs. Without them, we would not have experienced Qatar as fully and "non-linearly" as we did. They were always there for us, taking care of entertainment, photos and much more. I therefore dedicate this conclusion to all our new friends who led us deep into the Pearl of the Gulf.
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