Travelling to the Green Island – Part 1

Ireland throughout history

We visited the southern part, the Republic of Ireland, which covers about five-sixths of the island. The population is around five million. The first settlers arrived here around 8000 years ago. These were the Celts, who were living in clans. Unlike the English, the Romans never really occupied Ireland, in some places they only had trading posts. During the ninth century, the Vikings, and later the Angles and Saxons, began to settle there. By the Middle Ages, the ancient communities had united into five kingdoms. The Irish became closer to the rest of the world after the arrival of Saint Patrick, the missionary who brought Christianity to the country. During the modern era, the Irish were often, if not constantly, in conflict with the English Crown, which wanted to subjugate them. Religion also played a part in the conflict, as the Irish part was (and still is) predominantly Catholic and the British part Protestant or Anglican. Catholics were persecuted by the English and removed from public office and positions of influence. They regained their rights through Daniel O'Connell, to whom one of Dublin's main streets is dedicated.

From crisis to independence

In the 19th century, a major economic crisis hit, many people immigrated to the USA and the population dropped by a third due to a severe famine. This is recalled by Rowan Gillsepe's Famine Memorial, which shows completely dehumanized faces.

In the early 20th century, the Irish once again welcomed the idea of independence. After several independence proposals, they staged the 1916 "Easter Uprising", which was crushed by their eastern neighbours. This was followed by the Civil War, after which the island was divided into two parts in 1922. The Republic of Ireland declared its true independence in 1937. This story is also symbolised by their tricolour - the green part for Catholics, the orange for Protestants, and the white for peace and hope.

Between reality and legends

At the end of the 20th century, the predominantly agricultural economy also focused on industry and high-tech products. Ireland is home to many global multinationals, as the country is a good starting point for the European market. Ireland's role has been further strengthened since the UK's withdrawal from the EU. But history is not only made up of politics, but also of the more "fairytale" part. Many have heard of Saint Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, although he himself came from Roman Britain at the time. He was kidnapped by the Irish as a slave and spent several years with them. Legend has it that he was very good with the locals and the children, so when he left for his homeland, they started calling him back. History tells us that he returned as a missionary who spread Christianity. The Irish celebrate his name day on March 17, which is known to most of the world as St. Patrick's Day. Among the lesser-known but no less interesting characters is Molly Mallone. The beautiful girl was selling seafood by wheelbarrow around Dublin and winning the hearts of boys. Her life is said to have ended on a sadder note; she was forced to take up the world's oldest trade - prostitution - and she died of fever. Now the wheelbarrow is being pushed around by her spirit.

What are the Irish like in the eyes of others?

We started our journey with a song about the unfortunate Molly. On the bus, we learnt about the Irish rhythm as well as some of their cultural peculiarities. With them, it is quite normal to utter the words "f*ck off" to someone, and they do not mean anything serious with this. They are considered a relaxed and open nation, as they do not worry too much about anything. Their saying goes: "The only worry in life is that one day you will have to die. But even then, if you go to heaven, there will be no worry; but if you end up in hell, you will forget about worry, because you will be too busy greeting all your friends." Our tour guide presented us this and many other things. We flew over the Venetian lagoon in the middle of the day and landed in Dublin in just over two hours.

Causey Farm

Our first stop was Causey Farm in Fordstown in the north-west of Dublin, which has been there for centuries, according to the locals. Owned by the Dillon family in the early 1900s, it was taken over by Tom and Lily Murtagh in the 1960s. I met the current owner, their son Matt, who manages the farm with his sister Deirdre. Matt told me that, like their farm, some others opted for tourism because of the low income from the agricultural activity itself. They started welcoming domestic guests in 1998, and after a few years, they also opened their doors to foreigners. In just over twenty years, the farm has been transformed into a paradise for children and adults, where guests can get to know Irish culture. The local Dermot, who works on the farm, showed us around the property.

Rural culture

We tried our hand at baking Irish soda bread, which is made with white and black flour, an egg, salt, a teaspoon of soda and a glass of buttermilk. The dough is not kneaded, but beaten with a wooden spoon as it is quite sticky.

We had the traditional pig stew for dinner, which is made of large chunks of carrots, onions, mutton, pork or beef, and potatoes. Dermot also introduced us to Irish dancing, which is famous for the vigorous jumping in rows. The rhythm is provided by a traditional Irish drum, the bodhram, similar to a tambourine. It is made of a wooden frame with a sheepskin sheath and is struck with a double-sided stick held like a pen.

A fusion of religions

In the morning, we visited Monasterboice or Mainistir Bhuithe in County Lough. These are the remains of a 5th-century monastery, dominated by a tall stone tower that was used to retreat the monks to safety. The entrance was originally several metres above the ground. There is now a cemetery in the area. Compared to the ones in Slovenia, Ireland's are much less artistic and ornate. The Celtic cross is everywhere - the Christian cross is joined to the circle, the ancient Celtic symbol of eternity.

The Irish also drive on the "wrong" side of the road

Then we went on to Dublin. In Ireland, as in other British countries, they drive on the left, which dates back to Roman times when the right hand was left free for weapons. The British made driving on the left legal in 1773. The city is teeming with double-decker buses. Unlike their red cousins in London, they have changed their look several times over the years; from beige to blue, yellow... they are currently green and yellow.

The tram is also important for urban transport.

The Viking capital in black

The River Liffey flows through Dublin, with its distinctive brownish colour. This is also the origin of the town's name, Dubh Linn, which means "black pool". Dublin is said to have been founded by the Vikings, although there were settlements on the site before that. The Dublinia Museum is dedicated to the Vikings, and is located in the 11th-century Jesus Christ Cathedral in Dublin. The collection shows all areas of life, from cuisine, transport, eating and clothing. Like many other peoples, the Vikings demonstrated their social status by the colour of their clothing. The upper class wore shades of blue, red and purple. They were also recognisable by their various knitted patterns and motifs. Part of the museum's interior is built like a medieval town. It was characterised by buildings of timber construction, with the upper floors extending slightly beyond the lower floors across the street to gain some extra space.

With the Vikings, we conclude the first part of the travelogue. You are invited to read the second part, in which I will go to the other side of the country. I'm going to dive into nature and revisit history to explore the origins of some interesting facts.

Matic Štemberger