On my way to Santiago - The Portuguese Coastal Way – Part 2

Without any expectations whatsoever, I started my first Camino by the Atlantic Ocean in the charming town of Viana do Castelo, my current home for the next few months. As soon as I started walking, I was stunned by the beauty of northern Portugal. The scenery by the ocean was so beautiful I couldn't even believe I was finally there, headed towards Santiago.

Walking with a backpack and keeping my belongings to a minimum always seemed very appealing to me. For more than a week of walking, I carried in my 40-litre backpack some basic sports clothes, a water-resistant jacket, slippers, and a small towel. Since I didn't use the public albergues and mostly stayed at hostels, I didn't pack a sleeping bag. I used the budget-friendly option and slept in shared dorms, so I was glad I packed earplugs as well. I also carried a basic first aid kit for blisters and sore legs, a toothbrush, and multifunctional soap. There were plenty of supermarkets on the way, so I always bought enough food for one day only, and if it weren't for the books I bought on the way, my bag would never have more than six kilos. We get too attached to material things and travelling with a backpack can be a good reminder that you don't need a lot of things in your life.

Finding the directions on Camino de la Costa was honestly quite easy since I mostly just had to follow the Atlantic coast. I used the Camino Ninja mobile app to plan my route and find accommodation. There are yellow arrows and boundary markers along the road that show you the right direction. On the way, you can make use of many pilgrim-friendly facilities, such as cafes and restaurants that have special menus for pilgrims.

The route passed through many beautiful villages and towns. I especially liked the charming coastal town Caminha in northern Portugal and the Spanish cities Baiona and Pontevedra. In Viana do Castelo I made some extra steps to the Mount Santa Luzia, where I was rewarded with a spectacular view of the city and ocean. I visited Padrón, the hometown of outstanding Galician poet Rosalía de Castro and the famous Padrón peppers. I found the Spanish city Vigo too chaotic, so I wanted to escape it as soon as possible. Later on, I found out you could take a boat from Vigo to a real natural paradise – the Cíes Islands. The archipelago forms a part of the national park and is especially known for its pristine beaches and crystal-clear water. Before reaching the lovely town of Caldas de Reis, I also visited the Barosa River Nature Park where I rested and recharged while admiring the waterfalls.

In addition to all the natural wonders, the Portuguese Coastal Way also offers many places of cultural and historical interest. On my way to Santiago, I was able to wander around old city squares, admire majestic monasteries and churches, discover antique fortresses, and more. I was completely fascinated by the remarkable regions of northern Portugal and Galicia. Once in Santiago de Compostela, I took my time to simply just sit in front of the cathedral and let the excitement of arriving in the Galician capital take over. I spent an extra day exploring the city, but I really wish I had more time to continue walking towards Finisterre.

When I arrived at the famous Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the cathedral, I was kind of surprised I didn't feel any particular emotions. It was the moment I realised the destination honestly isn't that important. The number of kilometres and hours I'd spent walking didn't mean anything to me. It was the little things, such as getting to know myself better and the people I've met, that made my Camino so unforgettable. Even with several aching muscles and a painful knee, I felt so much joy just walking. There were so many things on the way to admire I didn't even notice how fast time flew.

I especially feel grateful to have met all the amazing people who completely impressed me with their enthusiasm and stories. Even though I knew I had never met them before, they seemed so familiar. It felt like there was some kind of special energy present that connected all of us. Each of us had our own “why Camino” and came from a completely different culture, and yet we were still all the same at the end of the day. You could simply spot a fellow pilgrim by seeing the pain they were in when trying to climb the stairs. However, there was still such a good mood present that you could almost see the positivism radiating from their eyes.

Camino made me realise everything in life happens for a reason and that everything you need comes exactly at the right moment. The moments when I was in most pain or feeling unmotivated, I somehow always ran into a local man greeting me with a big smile, a thumbs up, and a “bon caminho”, or a fellow pilgrim that made me forget about my thoughts for a while. Camino put me through many challenges and made it clear you really can't plan everything in life.