Helsinki is a place where fresh sea air sweeps through cobbled streets, where Scandinavian minimalism meets rich history, and modern culture blends with unspoilt nature. The Finnish capital charms with its architecture, culinary surprises, and a laid-back, welcoming vibe that's typical of Northern Europe. Set by the Baltic Sea, with its picturesque islands, stunning architecture, city buzz, and Nordic calm, it invites travellers to experience the unique rhythm of the North.
With our suitcases, we headed to the terminal, waved a final goodbye to Tallinn, and boarded the ferry to Helsinki. The two-hour journey passed by very quickly. We chose the Eckerö Line's ships, but there are several other providers as well. Some allow only the transport of passengers, others also allow cars. When we arrived in Helsinki, we downloaded the app from the HSL website and bought a three-day pass, which covered all public transport (metro, train, ferry) within the AB zone. The price of the ticket is 20 euros. The app is easy to use, and no validation is required when boarding public transport. The only important thing is that it's valid for the days you're using it. We took the metro downtown to find our place to stay.
One of the city’s most iconic symbols is undoubtedly the white church, which stands proudly over Senate Square. Here we also joined a two-hour guided tour of the city. It is an impressive neoclassical architecture with a magnificent staircase. Beneath it is the square, the historical heart of Helsinki, home to important buildings like the university and the government palace. During our visit, they were renovating the dome, but the church was still as famous as ever, full of tourists and serving as a point of reference and orientation because of its height, as it is visible from almost everywhere in the city.
Just one street away from the cathedral, past the Havis Amanda fountain, we turned towards the market by the waterfront. There were many ships docked there, and the smell of the sea mixed with the aroma of local delicacies sizzling on the grills of the food vendors. The market was full of life. Locals sold fresh fruit and vegetables there, but the prices were noticeably higher than what we saw a few days earlier in Riga and Tallinn. The first day we just walked by, and the next day we ordered lunch. We recommend you try it! We took two different plates of seafood and, like a true local, sat down at an empty table in one of the orange Arafat tents. It surprised us how many beggars were lurking on the sidelines, asking for leftover food.
On the pier near the market there is a brown brick building with a symmetrical façade and a triple door dating back to 1889. It’s considered one of the oldest covered markets in Helsinki. It has two floors. Below, there are vendors offering Finnish cuisine, such as fresh seafood, meat, bread, reindeer sausage, smoked salmon, salmon soup, and traditional sweets. The market also offers excellent coffee and baked goods. On the upper floor, many craftsmen and artists display and sell their products. Next to the market is an interesting tourist information centre building, which you can reach by a gently sloping ramp.
Next to the Vanha Kauppahalli is Esplanadi Park. A pleasant green oasis in the middle of the city, surrounded by luxury boutiques, restaurants, and cafés. Every day during our visit, there was a concert or festival happening here. At the end of the park is the Moomin Shop, where we also popped in to satisfy our curiosity and pick up some souvenirs featuring the famous Finnish cartoon characters.
We made our way back past the market, outdoor pools with a sauna, and the 40-metre-high ferris wheel with 30 gondolas, before heading towards the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe, which stands on a hill and offers a beautiful view of the harbour. Its red brick façade and golden domes create a stunning contrast in the city skyline. The inside of the church is decorated with richly gilded icons. Entrance is free.
We took the metro across town to the Amos Rex Museum. It is a contemporary art museum known for its futuristic architecture and innovative exhibitions. Named after a publisher and patron of art Amos Anderson, it is located in Lasipalatsa, on Mannerheimintie Boulevard. We didn’t go inside, but we walked around Lasipalatsi square near the museum, which is known for its wavy concrete domes and green figures. It’s a shame that the crowds were overwhelming.
After about 10 minutes of walking, we arrived at the Oodi Library, which had captivated us from a distance. In fact, all the buildings in this area are so well integrated into the surroundings. Here you'll find a music centre, playgrounds, Kiasma Museum, a large square in front of the Oodi library, the Finnish National Opera, and in the distance, you can see the start of the central park and the lake. It’s one of the most modern libraries in the world, offering a completely new perspective on what a library is. On the ground floor, there’s a café, and on the first floor, you’ll find workspaces, music rooms with instruments, a recording studio with all the gear for music and film editing, a sewing corner, labs, workshops, and 3D printers. The second floor has a wide range of books, magazines, and newspapers to borrow, a relaxing reading corner, a kids’ area, a restaurant, and a large terrace with a view of the park. The library is an architectural gem and a symbol of Finland's open society.
We headed to a unique church carved into natural rock, with a glass dome that lets in natural light. The neighbourhood is surrounded by residential buildings, and the church is partly "covered" by a playground, so we spent quite a bit of time looking for the entrance. It turned out we had missed the opening hours, and then a strong wind picked up, and it started to rain heavily. So, we couldn’t experience the beauty and exceptional acoustics of the church. We sheltered under the tree by the playground with one umbrella, then ran to the nearest metro station and headed home to warm up.
We visited the oldest amusement park in Finland, which has been open since 1950. Entry to the park is free, but you pay for the rides. It’s a great spot for if you like adrenaline, with rides ranging from a wooden rollercoaster to more modern attractions.
We took the metro to Korkeavuorenkatu, one of the most elegant and historic streets in the city, known for its architecture, design, and unique boutiques. We took a walk to the beautiful Art Nouveau building, which is home to the Design Museum. Nearby, we also stopped by the Levain bakery. With three locations around Helsinki, Levain has built something of a cult following. The simple, restaurant-style venues serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but they originally started as bakeries. The heart of Levain’s speciality is the king of bread – sourdough, baked in a stone-based oven.
When we were looking for a place to wait out the rain, we stumbled upon the museum opposite the cathedral and Senate Square by chance. We stepped into a lovely café, which turned out to be part of the Helsinki City Museum. Even the lobby caught our attention with its design, colours, and display exhibits. After we had our coffee, we went exploring. The museum offers an insight into Helsinki's history with interactive exhibits and nostalgic displays of everyday life from different eras. The museum is free, interactive, and very interesting. We had a lot of fun and would recommend you to visit it.
We wanted to make the most of the sunny day forecast and planned a trip to the Suomenlinna islands. The public transport ticket for the AB zone also included a ferry ride to the island. There are departures several times a day from in front of the market, and the ride takes 15 minutes. Suomenlinna is an archipelago of six connected islands and one of the largest sea fortresses in the world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After arriving on the island, we followed the directional arrows and walked through two islands. Suomenlinna was built for years as a defence against the Russians. Despite this, the Russians took control of it and held it for more than a century. You can still see the old shipyard, fortress, defensive walls, tunnels, cannons, and even a submarine. Suomenlinna is also a green and peaceful oasis, offering great walking paths, beautiful beaches for swimming, and we were joined by plenty of ducks, calmly waddling along with the tourists.
We also took a city tour in Helsinki. It turns out that the guide was actually a Scotsman who had lived in Helsinki for several years. A two-hour walk around the city, with stops at the landmarks, gave us an insight into the fascinating history, the Finnish way of life, and the local sights. The payment for the tour is based on voluntary contributions. Even though we were in Helsinki in August, it wasn’t too hot. It was nice and warm in the sun, perfect for a T-shirt and a jacket. The weather, however, changed quickly, and the forecasts on our phones weren’t very reliable. It turns out that the most reliable way is to simply look at the sky. It quickly became cloudy, windy, and rainy.
Finland is definitely a country where public transport is top-notch. The metros are clean, and the connections are fast and frequent. The signs are mainly in Swedish and Finnish, as both are official languages in Finland. The price of beer in bars is around 8 euros and more. In general, prices are much higher than in Slovenia. We spent an average of 20 euros per person for a meal. The city is massive, so we ended up seeing less than we had planned. If you're planning a trip, it's good to know that many museums offer free entry.
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