The biggest colony of penguins in South América
Chilean people like to say that if you turn a world map upside down,
Chile is the first country. It means that they are really far south in South América. And Isla Magdalena is located in the very south of that southern country, half way between Tierra del Fuego –the biggest populated island in that far south- and the continental part of the country, in the Strait of Magellan.
Isla Magdalena is a tiny nature sanctuary inhabited just by wild animals: about 200.000 Humboldt penguins, seabirds and sea lions. It is the biggest penguin colony in the whole South América, and as the natural wonder it is, it is strictly protected by the CONAF (Forestal National Corporation – Corporación Nacional Forestal, in Spanish).
To get to Isla Magdalena, one should take a Ferry which leaves 3 times a day – from early November to end of April – from the city of Punta Arenas, about 3 and a half hours from the Chilean capital of Santiago, by plane. The ride in the Ferry lasts half an hour and costs about 50 US Dollars 2 ways. During that time, one can also observe toninas, the so called Magallanic Dolphins, playing in the water.
A visit to Isla Magdalena lasts about 3 hours. Camping and other activities are strictly forbidden.
When arriving to the island, the first thing that strikes is the incredible amount of white-black dots dispersed over the island (each one is a penguin!), which also come by to the Ferry, trying to figure out what is going on. They are really curious creatures, and they are used to tourists, allowing some interaction (and perfect pictures!).
When arriving, a CONAF guard explains to the visitors that there is a pathway, where they can walk around the island and visit the lighthouse, while penguins walk free wherever they want. It is strictly forbidden to leave the pathway, to approach penguins, to touch them, to feed them and to toss rubbish on the ground.
The highlight of a visit to Isla Magdalena is to observe such a huge amount of penguins together at the same place, including baby penguins. Visiting time overlaps the arrival of baby penguins, so visitors can learn a lot about these animals. Penguin couples get 1 to 2 baby penguins, and because of the strong wind in the island, they don´t build traditional nests, but caves, where they can stay warm and comfortable.
Baby penguins are not black-white as the adults, but grey. They look like they have a grey and hairy pullover on, which hides their feathers. When babies are growing up, the „pullover“ starts falling down, and one can see some feather spots. CONAF guards determine how old baby penguins are, according to how big these „spots of feathers“ are.
Penguin parents are really protective of their children: one of the reasons why tourists should stay in the pathway is that if they walk too close to the cave-nests, parents can, and will, attack. I was personally bitten by a penguin (Yes, I know. I must have followed the instructions…) and even a week after, I had a pretty ugly bruise in my right leg. I was also told that a penguin bit and took off the index finger of a child who attempted to touch one of the babies, in 2007. So one should really be careful and prudent, and follow all instructions to preserve such a natural wonder, where penguins walk free and exercise sovereignty over the tiny Chilean Isla Magdalena.
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