Iran, when prejudices are silenced – Part 2

 

 

Isfahan or Esfahan (also known in history as Ispahan, Aspadana – in Old Persian), is a place that can be without exaggeration placed alongside Athens or Rome. It is not surprising that the city is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list and it is just impossible to discover everything that the city has to offer in only one day. 

 

Although time limit is a part of ever journey, we must keep in mind that the Isfahan is the jewel of Islamic architecture and of ancient Persia. Without exaggeration, we can say that is one of the most beautiful cities in the Islamic world. To all off you planning a trip to Iran, I recommend to devote enough time to Isfahan. Experiences are of course different and each has its own style of getting to know the life of the city, which takes place on the streets, bazaar, parks and of course in the wonderful teashops. Almost on every corner you will meet open people, with whom it is not difficult to start a conversation. The chattiest are the carpet sellers who would gladly buy you a cup of tea, but only for a reason. 

 

Although experience is relative and always different, the striking historical buildings, parks and bridges are something that does not change, and therefore I intend to continue with the attractions that you simply have to visit while in Isfahan.

 

To get to know the city, it makes sense to consider one of the written tour guides, or you can hire a personal guide, or even both. For somewhat more experienced travellers there are rental bicycles available all around Isfahan. Renting is free, you only need to leave some kind of leverage (e.g. a passport). No matter whether you are on a bike, on foot, alone or with a guide, it makes sense to start the sightseeing tour on the Naqsh-e Jahan market, better known as the Imams market and the main square of the former Persian capital. French poet Reiner in 16th century described it as ‘’a half of the world’’ and this description is quite accurate, because it is the most glorious selection of architecture in the Islamic world. Even the name of the market means 'The pattern of the world'; at least according to the vision of Shah Abbas the Great, which began building it in 1602 as the centre of the new capital. With its 512x163 meters the market is the second largest market in the world, following the Tiananmen in 

Beijing, and it has not changed significantly since the beginning of the construction. At the southern end the market is completed with a mighty Imams mosque, which is one of the most beautiful ones in the world. Along with the architectural magnificence and colour consistency the mosque has another peculiarity. In the centre of the building lies a black stone, which is located directly under the dome and from where your sound will have up to 49 echoes. The number was recognized by the scientists, but unfortunately a human ear can detect no more than 12.

 

 

Next landmark at the Imams market is the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque, which is slightly smaller, but perhaps even more lavishly equipped. The peculiarity of this mosque is also in the fact that it has no minarets, no yard and because there are stair leading up to the entrance. The reason for these features is in the purpose of the mosque, as it was not designed for public use but only for women from the Shah's harem. 

 

Opposite of the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque there is the Ali Qapu Palace, built in the late 16th century as the residence of Shah Abbas I. The greatest part of the palace is a raised terrace with 18 columns that offers a great view of the Imams mosque. You can of course visit the palace and walk through several chambers, one of which is a particularly interesting music room.

 

Bazar-e Bozorg or the Grand Bazaar is the next must-see thing in Isfahan. Although already internal corridors that connect the aforementioned attractions of Imams market are full of shops, the Grand Bazaar starts with the Qeysarieh portal, located at the northern end of the Imams market, with symmetrical entrance to the Imams mosque. Bazaar connects the Imams mosque with the "Jameh" mosque, the main mosque in the city, which is located 1.7 km northeast of the Imams market. The covered Bazaar, in addition to countless shops of carpets, spices, jewellery and even the most mundane things, such as shoes and clothing, hides also the manifold attractions of the city, because the paths from the bazaar are leading to more or less beautiful courtyards, small mosques and even towards a school. Given the fact that the bazaar is covered, considerable amount of concentration and good orientation is required to come to the Imam Ali market, a modern, but huge market, where you can find another attraction – the main mosque. 

 

The Jameh mosque is also the largest mosque in Iran, although it is less attractive as the Imams mosque in the main square. But the fact that it is the largest mosque in Iran, is a sufficient reason for a tour. If you need additional arguments, it is worth noting that in the 11th century the mosque was far from today's dimensions. It was upgraded through the centuries, and so you can observe the art and architecture of several centuries in an area of today's 20,000 square meters. Mosque, which is open for tours, is still functioning and attracts the faithful from the mighty minarets. Near the central mosque or the Jameh mosque there is another important mosque that bears the name of Imam Ali, the first Shiite Imam and it boasts with the second highest minaret in Isfahan that is almost 50 meters high.

 

 

If you want a little break from intensive visits of important palaces, mosques and particularly from the lively bazaar, it may be time to visit the river Zayandeh, the riverside parks and the Isfahan bridges. Water shortage in Iran is unfortunately such that water from the river Zayandeh is diverted for the needs of agriculture and industry far above Isfahanom, and so most of the year you can walk through the riverbed. Residents say that the riverbed is significantly nicer when it is full of water and it is difficult to disagree with them. With water or not Isfahan bridges are at least as photographed as the previously visited sites, and for a reason. Isfahan has seven historic bridges, including the busiest bridges Si-o-Seh (built between 1599 and 1602) and Khaju (built in 1650). However, if you are extremely enthusiastic about bridges, it makes sense to visit another bridge – Chub. Bridges are especially photogenic at night when illuminated. On both banks of the river there are walking and cycling paths along which are gardens and parks, restaurants, sports grounds, tea rooms and even outdoor fitness. In short, a suitable place to rest and relax.

 

The main square, the central mosque and bridges are just the tip of the attractions that Isfahan has to offer. In the city centre there is the Hasht Beheshti Palace, which can be translated as ‘’The Eighth Heaven’’. Former most luxuriously furnished palace in the city was thoroughly destroyed by time, but still bears witness to the splendour of the second half of the 17th century. Better preserved is the Chehel Sotun palace with its rich frescoes. But both palaces have exemplary landscaped gardens and parks. In the very canter of the town there are also a few museums, and a former "caravanserai", which today operates as the Abbas Hotel. Given that this is one of the most expensive hotels in the city, where the prices of a double room are starting from 170 euros, you will probably only see the majestic courtyard and enjoy a cup of tea.

 

Of course there are many more attractions in the centre of Isfahan and you cannot leave the city without having to visit the Jolfa area or the Armenian Quarter, that is located on the other side of the (dry) river and where still lives a small Armenian community. There are also 13 Armenian churches, among which the most prominent is the Vank. In Iran the production and consumption of alcohol is prohibited for the Muslim population while some members of other religions and minorities (with a predominance of Armenians) are allowed to produce it for their own use.

 

 

Before we go further to the south and to the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, Yazdu, let me mention three attractions that are a little further away. The first is Manar Jomban or The Shaking Minarets. It is a mosque with the tomb of Abu Abdullah, honoured dervish, which is adorned with two minarets made of a sufficiently flexible material to shake. Another special feature is that they are connected to each other with a special construction and every hour an employee climbs onto one of the minarets, shakes it, thus causing the other one to do just the same. Another attraction is the Zoroastrian fire temple that is a small sanctuary of ancient and very interesting religious minority.  And the third attraction are the pigeon towers, where the food and water were used to lure in pigeons so their droppings could be used as a fertilizer. There were over 700 such towers in the vicinity of Isfahan, hosting about 14,000 pigeons. Today they are mostly abandoned, but you can still visit some. Additional three attractions are within about 10 kilometres from the city canter, but as long as you travel towards Yazdu and on to Shiraz, you'll have a few chances for both fire temples and the dove towers. Shaking minarets are despite the tempting name not so special to be a must-see attraction. To visit remote sites of Isfahan free bicycles are offered, which are very useful to overcome the somewhat longer distances.

 

Given the fact that Isfahan requires at least 2 full days for a tour, it makes sense to find suitable accommodation.

 

In Isfahan, in addition to youth hostels (e.g. hostel Seven) there are a lot of hotels available; from very simple and cheap, all the way to the Abbas hotel, which is also one of the city's attractions. You do not have to worry about food either, because there are more than enough restaurants in the city; from those where you can quickly enjoy an excellent falafel, to prestigious ones. Also European restaurants and pizzerias are not missing.

 

As mentioned in the introduction, Iran has well-developed transportation connections, which I personally discovered at the first run in with the "VIP" bus, which has half as many seats (in the width are only three, not four seats) than normal buses. The sits can be transformed into deckchairs with a 45-degree angle and have a plenty of legroom, so I mostly slept through the 4.5 hour drive to Yazd. Bus terminals are generally located on the outskirts of cities so that the travel between places is almost independent from the city crowd and congestion.