Desert shock
It all started with the landing at Fuerteventura airport, from where I continued to the capital Puerto del Rosario. After half an hour in the car, outside the city, I was completely in disbelieve. I imagined beaches and sea, but was in the middle of desert. I came to hostel in Corrale, erected literally in middle of nowhere. It was surrounded only by vast brown land, cloudy skies and some shrubs. The civilization was lost with last traces of the bus and I got cold due to the constant wind I’m not used to.
The initial shock quickly turned into a very marry experience as my stay there got to be an unique experience. I was a participant of the summer school and already the first evening I got to know other participants and organizers (hosts). We’ve spent the following two weeks together, exploring the islands and getting to know each other (all together making 18 different nationalities).
The Canary Islands are west of Africa and belong to Spain. There are 2 million inhabitants, who live on eight islands: El Hiero, La Palma (where the capital of Santa Cruz de La Palma is located), La Gomera , Tenerife (where the capital of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is located), Gran Canaria (where the capital of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is located), Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. There are six more small islands, one of them is Isla de Lobos. Palma de Mallorca, the capital of the Mediterranean Mallorca has nothing to do with them – the locals like to stress out.
The paths of FUERTEVENTURA and LOBOS
Fuerteventura, a special island, that surprised all of us ignorant believers in stereotypes, got under our skin and we loved it. We crossed it many times from north to south (about a two hour’s drive). The road was long in the warm weather, with hot desert floor and very few plants or houses. Every now and then there were palm trees or cacti, that were the peak of vegetation. In places we even saw windmills as a reminder of the past times.
Every day we relaxed on the long shores and beautiful sand beaches of the cold meters tall waves of the ocean. I thought the sand never ends, while running along the dunes of Corrale. There were only the sky and hot sand under my feet, and a small caravan of camels on its way, not minding me.
One day we visited the island of Lobos, where people and sea lions used to live. It’s a natural protected area and (like the other islands) of volcanic origin. The ground was hard and we were surrounded by black, coal like ground, with dry reddish earth. There were some natural habitats as well. The tallest hill of the islands (Montaña de Caldera; 127 m) made up for the hard way to the top, by a view that took my breath away – a dark blue ocean, distant shores and the unimaginable vastness of the world – in just one glance.
Apart from nature we also got to know the culture of the islands day by day. We visited the museum, showing the distant past. It’s a traditional complex of traditional houses, with flat roofs and inside similar to ours - with a black kitchen (no chimney), religious symbols and farming tools. The poor man’s house was small, but rich people could have large houses, even with two stories. At the museum, a man was crafting pottery in a traditional way, with many colours and the many woven products were made of palm trees, testifying the once wide spread craft. An elderly woman was making a lace, with a complex design, quite similar to one back home in Idrija. Outside there were typical large dark brown and black dogs, donkeys and camels. It was like time stood still. Like there’s nothing but heat surrounding the buildings, with no rain in sight. And the rain if vital, as the island lacks fresh water. They are careful with it, something quite strange to us. If you see water flowing, it’s not drinkable and showers are really saving water.
SANCHEZ, LA RAMA and ROQUE NUBLO
In the second part of the holidays we took a nicely equipped ship to our last stop – Gran Canaria. The capital Las Palmas with 400.000 inhabitants accepted us with everything Fuerteventura denied us; palm trees, tall old buildings, beautiful green parks and relaxed atmosphere. The hostel in the old centre was huge and unlike the previous one, with unlimited water! I thought the old centre, where even Columbus stayed, was more tourist like, but on Sunday it was just like Maribor – mostly empty. Tourists generally stay at the coastline, the locals explained.
We also crossed this island. We enjoyed the beautiful beaches, which are – unlike the other ones – not windy. The ones with artificial or natural pools are really beautiful, but most special are those with shining black sand.
Apart from the coastline, the inland also impressed us. We walked to the places where vegetation grows. In the mountains a grand might Roque Nublo met us after about an hour. This 80m tall rock – the rock of clouds – is surrounded by two others in the shape of a monk and a turtle. The view of Tenerife was obscured by sand (it was like fog) by the wind that brought it from Africa. Still, looking from the mighty rock I felt the power of nature and got to feel the vase open space.
Apart from nature we also stopped in lovely little towns, that usually featured a church and a well in the centre. I especially remembered the green and quiet town of Ingenio. It features the tallest (almost 50m) and oldest (between 500 and 600 years old) palm tree of Spain. We were greeted by the excellent musician Blas Sánchez and his yearning, sophisticated Spanish songs enchanted us, so nobody moved. Hearing his guitar made my eyes wet, although I don’t otherwise get moved by music.
Music accompanied in other parts as well, like with traditional dances. The white clothing reminded me of Bela Krajina, but these had lively parts and the women had small covers for the head. The dance was vivid, but still reminded me more of a polka than a continental tango.
But you do get to feel the temperament on Gran Canara. In the town of Agaete we saw the festival La Rama. It’s an old tradition of offerings to the rain god, where everybody wants to participate (young and old). In the distant past, if there were dry periods, they brought branches from the mountains and took them in a parade down to the sea. There they were pounding the water to awaken the higher might. Today they keep up the tradition and the festivities surrounding it. Along with 10.000 people I was dancing and got excited following large dolls (they lead the procession) all the way acros the town to the sea. There we took the branches and pounded the water – so maybe these year there will be more rain.
Culinary heaven of water sports
The canaries are quite relaxed and people have less worries. They eat slowly and tend to always be late. They are not so bound by time as we are. Everything takes longer but with a greater appetite. You especially feel that when it comes to food and drink. With some tinto de verano, sangria or calimocho, that will convince wine lovers, they take great pride in their Arehucas rum. It’s produced in the largest and oldest rum distillery of Europe. Among many variations I preferred the ones with taste of honey, banana and menthol. I enjoyed the famous paella, it’s young potato with spicy hot red sauce mojo and many sea dishes. But the top of my taste buds was the heavenly grilled goat cheese with marmalade. It had a strong tase (unlike their goat cheeses) and was only mildly salted. The contrast with sweet marmalade made the perfect harmony of disorder that was mixed in the softness of texture.
Not to get too lazy with great food, the people usually enjoy many water sports and I joined them. I participated in the sailing of »Vela Latina«. It’s a special way of sailing in the renovated sailboats. The experience is special and I remember the moment when the sail boat bent over so I was looking at the huge sail just an inch from my face and my pants got wet in the ocean. But I’ve discovered the better sport for me – the moment when the wave takes the board on which you lie, just before the moment when you stand up… yes, surfing fascinated me even if I ended up with a punctured ear drum. I will return to it – and for all mentioned above – to the Canaries as well!
Nina Piberčnik
