Saudi Arabia was one of the last countries in the world to open up to tourism. Until 2019, foreigners could only get a pilgrimage visa – Muslims going to Mecca, or a worker visa for foreign labour, which is very much needed in Saudi Arabia. They didn't give out tourist visas. Well, in 2019 that all changed, and since then, with a brief pause during the COVID pandemic, the country has been open to tourists as well.
Anyone who's been to Dubai, the UAE, or even Oman probably thinks Saudi Arabia will be quite similar. And it's no wonder, since all these countries are on the Arabian Peninsula and share quite a bit of cultural and historical similarity. But as it turns out, this was not the case. We were very surprised to find that Saudi Arabia is worlds apart from Oman or the UAE when we travelled there in April 2024.
"Splendour and misery" feels like the perfect way to describe Saudi Arabia. And in different areas, too. Soon after arriving in Saudi Arabia, we noticed the stark difference between the very poor and the very wealthy. Most of the major cities in the country, especially those significant to the royal family or the national economy, are all shiny, filled with grandiose buildings and massive shopping malls. However, just one side street reveals a different reality – a considerably lower class of people, dirt, and piles of rubbish. As we were driving around the country in our rental car, we saw really poor villages, crumbling houses, and shepherds with their sheep in the dry desert. It was a completely different picture from what we had imagined before. Those scenes reminded us more of Sahelian countries in Africa than the Arabian Peninsula. While Oman also has noticeable differences between its cities and the countryside, we didn't see the same level of poverty there as we did in Saudi Arabia, nor did we encounter such big contrasts of splendour.
The same goes for tourism (or lack of tourism) in Saudi Arabia – splendour and misery. They're really working on boosting tourism, trying to take activities, attractions, accommodations, restaurants, and the overall visitor experience up a notch.
One really successful example of tourism development can be seen in AlUla in the north of the country. There, you'll find the most important archaeological remains in Saudi Arabia—the tombs of the Nabataeans, the same people who built the famous Petra in neighbouring Jordan. Here in Saudi Arabia, there are several Petra-like temples and tombs. And in AlUla, everything works—public transport, tourist information, souvenir shops, restaurants, guided tours—you name it! Things that are quite unknown in much of Saudi Arabia. If you were to look for tourist information in some other place, you'd probably be met with a response like: "You must be joking, right? We don't have that here."
AlUla is an oasis in more ways than one. In the literal sense, AlUla is situated in a valley where water flows from the surrounding mountains, nourishing a large grove of date palms. But also in a figurative sense. After a few days of travelling through the dry landscape of Saudi Arabia, where we didn't see a single tourist and there was very little tourist infrastructure, everything felt quite raw, and it was hard to find our way around. All the signs were in Arabic, for example. But when we arrived in AlUla, everyone spoke English, all the signs were in English, and everything was well-organised. There were plenty of options for places to stay, trips, and a ton of things to do!
We really relaxed in AlUla, and I can confirm it's amazing to see ancient tombs, the desert, and an oasis, along with modern architectural and engineering achievements. For instance, the largest building made of mirrors, Maraya, is located there. At the same time, you have a shop, a restaurant, and an airport right at your fingertips. There are lots of accommodation options to choose from. Most of them are upscale hotels, but you can also find some simple rooms here and there. So, I can say it's a place that meets the needs of every type of tourist. From those seeking luxury to the more adventurous ones on a tighter budget. However, there are more options for wealthier tourists.
Saudi Arabia has a really long coastline along the Red Sea, with gorgeous sandy beaches and an amazing underwater world. And there, you can see that divide again. The city of Umluj is a good example. The whole city has just one proper beach for swimming. This means that the beach is marked off with buoys. The rest of the coastline, which is honestly much more beautiful than that beach, is part of a park. In the evenings, people sit around and watch the sun set directly over the sea, but no one goes swimming. The park used to be lovely, but today it's mostly run-down and unmaintained. The sandy beach is so inviting, and the coral-filled sea is just within reach, yet apart from us two "odd" tourists, no one else was swimming. There was no other tourists around.
The situation on the islands around this place is different. All the focus for tourism development has shifted over there, and they seem to have forgotten about the town itself a bit. They've dubbed those islands the "Saudi Maldives", as they are truly idyllic, with sandy beaches surrounded by turquoise waters and coral reefs. And the tourist offerings they have there are very similar to those in the Maldives. You can reach the islands by helicopter or seaplane, and when you get there, you'll find villas over the water, ultra-luxurious resorts, trips you can take, massages—pretty much everything you could wish for. It's dreamy, but it comes with quite a hefty price tag.
So, how is tourism developing in Saudi Arabia? Our answer is: definitely in the direction of luxury tourism. For those with deep pockets, Saudi Arabia offers plenty of opportunities to spend their money. They can treat themselves at different spots around the country, try out a bunch of activities, and eat at the finest restaurants. For those with a more adventurous spirit, Saudi Arabia is still quite a tough nut to crack. Accommodation outside the major cities is limited, quite basic, and rather pricey for what you get. There's very little public transport, so renting a car is practically essential for exploring the country. In most cases, locals are extremely hospitable, but surprised when they see a tourist. Generally, they assumed we were just foreigners working in Saudi Arabia and that we happened to be on a weekend trip in a certain part of the country.
Let's wait and see how Saudi tourism develops, but for now, it seems there will be more options for those looking to travel in luxury rather than for adventurers. So if you're looking for a honeymoon destination and the Maldives are a bit too far, we definitely recommend Saudi Arabia as something similar! It's about a five-hour flight from Central European airports, and what they have to offer there is pretty similar to the Maldives.