After a three-day trip to Bhutan, one of the most remote countries in the world, I was back at the airport in Kathmandu, but this time with a visa, which had significantly speeded up the entry formalities. In a few moments I was taking over an electric Chinese SUV for a the three-day use. Not only did I sign the rental contract, but I also authenticated it with my fingerprint according to Nepali rules. After the arranged formalities, professor Dr. Bogomil Ferfila and I set out on new adventures. But even driving on Nepalese roads is an adventure in itself. When we add a specific way of driving on the left side, countless trucks and buses, and rutted roads that have been washed away by landslides in many places, the adventure turns out to be complete.
The Nagdhunga Tunnel is one of the major road projects in Nepal, as it will be the first major road tunnel in Nepal with its 2.71 kilometres and will significantly ease travel between Kathmandu and Chitwan or Pokhara. But at the time of my visit, the tunnel was still under construction, so I had the opportunity to drive along the steep panoramic road, which is in extremely bad condition, because investing in a road that will become a thing of the past with the opening of the tunnel would be pointless. And so, already on the first kilometres of the journey, I realised that choosing an SUV was not only the right, but also the only possible choice.
Even the arrival in the valley did not significantly change the driving conditions, since a considerable part of the road runs along the Trishuli river, which is filled not only by tributaries, but also by torrents, which trigger landslides and wash away some parts of the road into the river. That it is one of the most important roads in the country with the designation H04, or Prithivi Highway, is only said by the roadside signs, because everything else resembles a tank training ground rather than a road. Regardless of the road's quality, the journey is fascinating. We're constantly passing through small villages and towns, surrounded by beautiful nature, and accompanied by the Trishuli River. Suspension bridges span the river, inviting us to stop and take in the view.
Despite the bad roads, driving along the Trishuli River is interesting especially because of the characteristic suspension bridges, as Nepal boasts the longest suspension bridge in the world, which measures as much as 567 metres. Nepal also has a system of several suspension bridges over the Mahakali River, which in total measures as much as 1,496.50 metres.
Bridges like this, but slightly shorter, are also on the Trishuli River and allow pedestrians, cyclists and moped riders to cross to the other side of the river to the cultivated land away from the busy road.
After a few hours of arduous driving on a rutted and muddy road, we finally make our way to the town of Mugling, where at the confluence of the Trishuli and Daraudi rivers, the road to Chitwan splits off from the H04, which leads all the way to Pokhara. Mugling is also one of those must-stops along the way and offers countless restaurants, shops, petrol stations and fast charging stations for electric vehicles. After a very tasty lunch in a restaurant that almost certainly does not meet HACCP standards, along the significantly better road H05 or Madan Ashrit Highway and still along the Trishuli River, we reached accommodation in the heart of the Chitwan National Park. Here we also tried charging the vehicle at the home socket for the first time. In Nepal, electricity is very affordable, so the accommodation didn't even want to hear about any kind of payment for the charging or even a tip.
Despite the light rain, we agreed on two adventures—rowing on the Rapta River and an organised safari through that part of the national park where entry without a guide is not allowed. But even though we were expecting a bigger adventure on the safari, the only real adventure was paddling on the river. In a low wooden boat, together with a local guide, we went down the river, where we watched adult crocodiles up-close. They were about 3 metres long and about 150 kg in weight. According to the guide, they aren't dangerous, but in extreme cases he would push them away with a stick. After that we went together to the property with some elephants and back to the accommodation, where another guide picked us up and took us on a group safari, where we mainly observed roe deer, hyenas and various birds, and at one location we also saw a rhinoceros in the distance.
A bit drenched, we returned to the accommodation, where the car battery was still charging. But even with 70%, we decided to head towards Pokhara.
On the way to Pokhara, about 25 kilometres from the H04 road lies the small town of Gorkha. It became famous because of the Nepalese soldiers that have (almost) the same name and are called Gurkhas. The Gurkha Memorial Museum was established as a token of appreciation for the service and courage of the Gurkha soldiers in the First and Second World War. In the museum, we can see the awards and recognitions that the Gurkhali soldiers have received over the years for their contribution to peace and prosperity in the world.
The word "Gurkha" originates from the Gorkha district of Nepal. During the time of western invasion, these brave warriors fought with the western army and went down in history as the mightiest warriors. The Western military was impressed by the bravery of the Nepali soldiers and decided to integrate them into its forces.
After returning to the valley, there was another hard drive along the H04 road, which was in many places in a far worse condition than what we had seen the day before. The drive to Pokhara, which is 80 kilometres away, took about three hours, and the journey to the accommodation was extended by an hour or so by charging the electric vehicle. The accommodation with the significant name Himalayan crown lodge was located next to the Sarangkot lookout tower, to which an extremely steep road leads which climbs for as much as 500 m in height in just six kilometres. And although we still had almost 100 kilometres of battery under normal conditions, it was draining at such a speed on this steep road that it probably wouldn't have made it to the top.
Unfortunately, reality and fiction intertwine in this title, as the Hindu temple was real and tangible, and the view of Annapurna was obscured by thick clouds that blessed us occasionally with some raindrops. Despite the fact that Annapurna was not visible, the weather at least allowed for a view of the Pokhara valley and Pokhara itself, which is not only the starting point for Annapurna, but hides quite a few tourist gems that must be visited.
Lake Phewa alone is reason enough to visit Pokhara, as it is the second largest lake in Nepal and the largest in the Pokhara region. Especially in good weather, we can spend a whole day or even two at the lake, as they offer a variety of activities. In spring and summer, the water temperature varies between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius, which means that it is also suitable for swimming.
In Nepal, many religious dignitaries, even from Europe, could learn religious tolerance and coexistence, as there is absolutely no friction between Hindus and Buddhists. Of course, Pokhara is no exception to this, and what's more, there are many Buddhists from Tibet in Pokhara, so you can have this experience in the "Tibetan village of Tashi Ling". You will definitely experience the best Hindu culture at the temple next to the Gupteshwar Mahadev cave. With a bit of luck, you might also witness a colourful performance or ritual in the cave itself, as Dr. Ferfila and I did, despite the weather. The cave is called Gupteshwor because people believe a deity in disguise lived there during the Satya Yuga, the best of the four time periods, which is also depicted in rituals. In Nepali, it is also known as Bhalu Dulo, meaning bear's den.
Near the Gupteshwar Mahadev holy cave, you will find Devil's Falls, one of the most unusual waterfalls I have ever seen. The raging river plunges into the depths, likely giving the falls their name.
Although Pokhara has much more to offer, our visit ended at a Buddhist shrine called "World peace pagoda", which is located on one of the peaks above the lake and offers a wonderful view of the lake in addition to its calming atmosphere.
After visiting the temple, the only thing left to do was ride a local taxi to the charging station, where our Chinese electric SUV was collecting energy to continue the journey to Kathmandu.
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