Nepal - A Journey Among Hearty People Under the Roof of the World – Part 4

Our joy of having the road to ourselves ended in Byas, where we rejoined the H04 and continued to the town of Naubise. From there, we took the H02 for the final 30 kilometres to Kathmandu. After two days of battling mud, heavy rain, and chaotic traffic, we finally said goodbye to the car in Kathmandu.

Kathmandu - the capital at 1,400 metres above sea level

This fourth chapter is for anyone who might have been put off by my descriptions of the roads between Kathmandu, Chitwan, and Pokhara. Kathmandu alone has so much to offer that it's worth a visit. And when you add in the historical sites in the Kathmandu Valley, there are plenty of reasons to explore Nepal, even if you decide to stay in Kathmandu the whole time.

While having your own transport is almost essential for exploring Nepal, it's a different story in Kathmandu and the surrounding areas. Here, a car is usually not needed. Finding parking takes more time than just using public transport or taxis. Plus, it's a lot more expensive. You rarely have to pay more than 1 euro for public transport, and a taxi only costs a few euros, whether it's on two wheels or four.

When we talk about Kathmandu, we can't overlook that it has blended with Patan, or Lalitpur, which is actually the fourth largest city in Nepal. So, I won't be making a big distinction between the attractions in Kathmandu and those in Patan since they're only separated by the Bagmati River. And right next to the river is the first attraction I want to share with you.

Pashupatinath Temple is located on the banks of the holy Bagmati River and is the most revered Hindu temple in Nepal. Although you might not visit it during the Pashupati Bagmati Aarati ritual or festivals like Shivaratri and Teej, it is a must-see attraction. It is also an UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason. Just as interesting as the temple complex itself is the Slesh Mantak forest that surrounds it and in which you can meet many monkeys and also deer, although the latter live in captivity to worship the animal form that Lord Shiva has assumed according to the Swasthani Kath brothers. You can experience a very special ritual by the river, which may not be for everyone. Hindus do not bury their dead, but burn them. Despite all the modern crematoria, some still do it in the traditional way, and so you can meet mourners burning their deceased relatives on the banks of the river.

Given that I have already mentioned how Hinduism and Buddhism coexist in Nepal, it is right that we also get to know some Buddhist sanctuaries. Although the guidebooks put Boudhanath first, I will start with the Swayambhu Temple, popularly nicknamed the Monkey Temple, because in the temple area we meet countless free-living monkeys, which are as used to tourists as pigeons in Venice. But even the name of the Monkey Temple is somewhat insulting to another group of animals that lives in the temple area. There are at least as many dogs there, which are apparently not that interesting and therefore don't appear in the popular name of the temple.

Swayambhu literally means "self-born", or "self-existing". It was built by King Manadeva back in 460 AD, and by the 13th century it had become an important centre of Buddhism. Legend has it that Swayambhu was born from a lotus flower that bloomed in the middle of a lake that once spread across the Kathmandu Valley. The largest image of Sakyamuni Buddha in Nepal stands on a high plinth at the western border of Swayambhu next to the ring road. Behind the hilltop is a temple dedicated to Manjusra or Saraswati – the goddess of learning. Chaityas, statues and shrines of Buddhist and Hindu deities fill the stupa complex. The base of the hill is almost entirely surrounded by prayer wheels and deities.

Just below the hill on which the Monkey Temple is located, you can find a natural history museum, which unfortunately I cannot write about from my own experience. Dr. Ferfila and I decided to visit two museums that are close to each other and about one kilometre from the Monkey Temple—Nepal National Museum and the Nepal Military Museum.

Established in 1928 as the Arsenal Museum, the National Museum of Nepal is housed in a historic building built by General Bhimsen Thapa in the early 19th century. The museum was initially called Chhauni Silkhana, which literally means "Stone House of Arms and Ammunition", and is still popular under the name Chhauni Museum. The museum is divided into three main historical collections, each in a separate building. One of the museum's greatest attractions is the leather cannon associated with the period of the Tibetan War of 1792, which is a fitting conclusion to the National Museum and an introduction to the Military Museum.

The Military Museum in Kathmandu is a small museum dedicated to preserving and displaying the history of the Nepal Army and is a popular destination for history buffs and military enthusiasts. Located in a big two-story building, the museum has many exhibits about the history of the Nepal Army. You can see weapons, uniforms, and other military gear. There are also photos and documents about the army's history, along with a small library of books and resources on military history. The most interesting part of the Military Museum is the display of the Gurkha regiments, which have a long history in Nepal.

In addition to the Durbar Squares in Kathmandu and Patan, with which I intend to end the travelogue, I would like to list and briefly describe those attractions that you should not miss when visiting the capital of Nepal:

• Skywalk Nepal does not belong to the historical buildings by name, and that is why it is ideal for a slightly different experience, such as walking on glass 80 metres above the city and, of course, a wonderful view, especially in good weather.
• Thamel and Asan go together like yin and yang, giving Kathmandu its special vibe. Thamel is the most touristy area, packed with shops and restaurants, while Asan represents the heart of old Kathmandu. Both places have a lively atmosphere that adds to the city's charm.
• Boudhanath Stupa – in terms of grace and purity of line, no other stupa in Nepal comes close to this one. From the whitewashed dome to the gilded tower painted with the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha, the monument is perfectly proportioned and therefore absolutely worth a visit.
• The Narayanhiti Palace, which used to be a royal palace, has been a museum since 2008, which I unfortunately did not manage to visit, but the description on the web alone convinces me that it is one of those attractions that you should not miss during your visit.

Of course, even with this list, we have not finished with the points worth visiting, because many guides and even Nepal's official websites offer us the Garden of Dreams and some other attractions. I conclude the story with the royal square.

The Durbar Squares are located in Bhaktapur and Panauti as well as Patan and Kathmandu. But since we talked about those in Bhaktapur and Panauti in the second part, I will now focus on the topic in Patan and Kathmandu.

• Patan Durbar Square, like the other three squares of the same name, is located in the centre of the city of Patan and was once the palace of the kings of Patan. The square is a charming mix of buildings, courtyards and elegant temples and pagodas. The magnificent Krishna Temple with 21 gilded towers, built in 1637, and the Manga Hiti, a sunken stone water pipe found within the palace complex, are just a few examples of its splendour. Built entirely of stone, the Krishna Temple is said to be the first example of Shikhara style architecture in Nepal.
• Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Basantapur Durbar and Hanuman Dhoka is located in the heart of Kathmandu. It is also known as the "Museum of Temples" because there are more than 50 temples in the square. Among the 50 temples lying nearby is the temple of the titular deity, Taleju Bhawani. Taleju Temple is the tallest of all the structures built in 1549 by King Mahendra Malla.

Inside the square, you must also visit Nasal chowk—a beautiful courtyard in the historic royal residence, Shisha Baithak—an open terrace with the Malla throne and paintings of the Shah kings on display, and of course the Tribhuwan Museum.

In the introduction, I shared some basic information about when and how to visit Nepal. I hope that this travelogue has also answered the question of why you should visit and inspired you to explore this fascinating country. You definitely won't be bored here! History, nature, culture, and amazing food all go hand in hand to make your experience unforgettable.