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A climb to Vrtača for tour skiing

A winter ascend to Vrtača is only for the experienced, as there's a lot of snow and possible avalanches, ice and other things… it's a demanding adventure. It was unplanned, when a friend and I went to Vrtača to do some tour skiing. We planned to climb a different slope but the sight of Vrtača tempted us to try it.

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Vrtača

Mt. Vrtača is a quite popular mountain, standing as just under two thousand meters of elevation. It’s the tallest peak of the ridge that features the national border between Slovenia and Austria. On the south slopes you will find a famous Slovenian mountain trail connecting Begunjščica and Stol. Otherwise the peak can be reached from various starting points. Paths toward the top many times run into each other. Some claim that it is possible to get a clear summer day when you’d be standing alone on the top, but my experience tells me different. I’ve been alone on top only in winter time. From the top of the mountain you get a beautiful view of both countries – Austria and Slovenia. And on a clear day you get to see the lakes. There’s a great view of Lake Bled and the mighty Alps rising behind it.

To Vrtača in the winter, usually over Zelenica

Usually most hikers go up Vrtača over the former ski slope of Zelenica, which is for many just a passing point at the tours. Across Zelenica we most often go to Triangel, Begunjščica, Roblek, Stol and naturally Vrtača. The path taking us across Zelenica and then Suho rušje towards Vrtača is in parts marked as demanding. This is marked for the summer time, while in winter conditions for tour skiing it’s completely demanding. The trail is known to have many visitors, is well marked and in good conditions you can meet many people. At this time we met many tour skiers on the way towards Zelenica, and also hikers, but further on towards Vrtača we met only four, with only one going towards the top. Even he turned the other way upon seeing the steep final part of the trail towards the peak.

It was worth the effort

Reaching the top with tour skis on our feet was almost perfect – until the steep gorge under Vrtača. This was ever more demanding with ice in some places and soft spots where you would fall in snow waste deep. There was nobody making the trail before us, to make it easier. We took the skies off and put them on the back to continue on foot. All the time, as we didn’t talk, I was thinking what the ride down will be like. I realized there was no room for error as I’d have problem stopping even with the pickaxe, as it was that steep. A few metres under the peak we got out of the fog and in five minutes we were on top, bathing in warm sun. All around us was fog, from which other peaks were sticking out. The wind was blowing that kept changing the fog and at one point opened a perfect view of Austria. With such a view it was hard to decide to go back down, but the ride down was easier than I’ve imagined, so at the end we both said even the ride was perfect.
 
Mt. Vrtača is one of the greatest lookout points and is well worth a visit. For those with less experience it’s recommended to go in summer time, but if you love a bit more extreme climbs, you can visit in the winter, as we have.

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